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Author Topic: Basic V-Strom Wiring 101  (Read 55711 times)
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johnofchar
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« on: 12/08/05 2037 Hours »
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Basic Strom Wiring 101 (DL1000 & DL650)

1. Most wires that are solid Orange or Orange with a color strip is a Switched 12 Volt wire. However, there are a few Orange with stripe wires you do not what to use. Stay away from the Orange/White, Orange/Black & Orange/Red wires, these are still switched power but not ones to mess with. Switched 12 Volt means the wire is HOT when the key is ON. The reason for using switched power to power accessories, is if an accessory is left on unintentionally it won't drain your battery.

2. Any wire that is Black with a White strip is a Ground wire. You will find many small rectangular connectors with 5 or 6 Black/White wires running into them around the bike. These are ground connection terminals and do not plug into anything. Don’t use these as grounding points for accessories. Photos: http://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,3825.0.html

3. Best places to obtain Switched 12 Volt power for an Auxiliary Fuse Block Relay.

  A. Tail Light wire. This is the Brown wire running in the tail harness along the left rear subframe. After the tail harness connector (located at the rear of the subframe) it is the Graywire.  Note: This wire is HOT when the key is in the PARK or ON position. This is good to use if you what to run accessories without having the ignition & lights on. But, if in park for an emergency and using emergency flashers your accessories will be energized. This is my favorite, but I also install a small underseat switch to disable the aux box when desired. Brown wire also avail under fuse box 05 & up 1000 & all 650. Eastern Beaver Kit.

  B. OEM heated grip connector. Located behind radiator on left side & usually taped to the main harness. A Black connector with 2 wires going to it. Orange/Green wire is Swithed Hot and Black/White is Ground. If you do not want to cut this connector, then order Suzuki part no. 36852-06G00 (~ $11). This is the horn lead wire and the connector will mate. Eastern Beaver Kit.

  C. Rear Brake Light Switch wire. Located just forward of the battery. A small clear white 2 wire connector, one Orange/Green & one White/Black. Orange/Green wire is switched Hot, no ground wire available here. Eastern Beaver Kit.

  D. Instrument Panel Power wires. Located inside left side cowling in wire pocket. Must remove cowling panel and strip part of harness cover off for wire access. The Orange/Green wire is switched & the red/white wire is full time power.

  E. Any of the Orange (or striped Orange) wires under the OEM fuse box. You can just detach and pull the fuse box up to gain access. The Brown tail light wire is also here on 05 & up 1000 & all 650.

4. Tail Section wire colors. First listed color will be as it is in the tail harness running along the left rear subframe. The Second color is after the connector located at the rear end of the subframe (this is the part that actually connects to the lights).

  A. Tail Light – Brown & then Gray
  B. Stop Light – White/Black & then White/Black
  C. Left Turn – Black & then Black
  D. Right Turn – Light Green & then Light Green
  E. License - Brown & then Gray (Same as Tail)
  F. Ground - Black/White & then Black/White

5. Headlight Wires. First color listed is as they are after the fuse and in the forward section. The second color is from the handlebar switch to the fuse.

  A. High Beam - Yellow from fuse to light. Yellow/Blue from switch to fuse.
  B. Low Beam - Black/Blue from fuse to light. White/Blue from switch to fuse.

6. Other wires that may be of use.

  A. Tachometer signal – Brown/Black wire in main harness running through left side cowling (needed for Cruise Control or Datatool Digi Gear).
  B. Speed signal from Speed Sensor – Pink/White wire in main harness running through left side cowling (needed for Cruise Control, Pro Oiler or Datatool Digi Gear).
  C. Blinker signal (power) to control switch. Light Blue wire located under OEM fuse box.
  D. Gear Position Sensor signal (going to ECU) – Pink wire in 3 wire connector just forward of fuse box on the 1000 & behind the left main frame above foot peg on 650.
  E. Neutral Light Signal - Blue/Black wire in main harness running through left side cowling (needed for Datatool Digi Gear).


7. Grounding point for accessories. All ground leads should run back to the battery negative terminal. Either directly or through an Aux Grounding block or Aux Fuse Block that also contains grounding terminals. The Ground Block, whichever kind, should be connected to the battery negative terminal with a 10 gage or 12 gage wire.   One last method for a ground buss if you don’t wish to use blocks, is to have a short 10 gage lead running from the battery to which you solder all of the smaller ground leads from accessories and cover with tape or shrink tubing.

8. How to install a Manual Fan Override switch. Attach a 2 position (On/Off) toggle or rocker switch across the 2 wires running into the thermostatic fan switch (both Black/Red), located on the rear-right side of the radiator. Do not cut wires from the thermostatic switch or the auto fan mode will be disabled.

9. Wiring Auxiliary Driving lights. Most come with a lighting relay and a relay must be used. Use at least 16 gage (14 gage is better) wire for both power & ground leads. An On/Off switch, High beam, Low beam or switched power on (not recommended) may latch the relay. Hot lead must be fused when coming directly from the battery or fused through an Aux fuse box.
Related thread: http://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,4523.0.html

10. Wiring Auxiliary Horns. It is highly recommended to use a horn or lighting relay for power to the horns. This relay should be latched using the wires that feed the OEM horn. Use at least 16 gage (14 gage is better) wire for both power & ground leads. Hot lead must be fused when coming directly from the battery or fused through an Aux fuse box. The popular Stebel air horn requires a 15 amp fuse.
Related thread: http://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,1496.0.html

11. Strom Wattage Available. This is at 5000 RPM, at idle and slow speeds, considerably less.

  02 DL1000 = (350 watts) ~95 watts to play with
  03 & Up DL1000 = (400 watts) ~ 145 watts to play with
  04-07 DL650 = (375 watts) ~ 120 watts to play with (ABS models somewhat less)
  08 & Up DL650 = (400 watts) ~ 145 watts to play with (ABS models somewhat less)
  02 DL1000 with 05 SV1000 engine & HID headlights & LED's ~ 190 to play with  Grin

12. Fuse Sizing for auxiliary equipment.  A device is fused properly when the fuse rating is 150% of the max the fused device will draw. Example: Vest using 45 watts: I=P/E; I=45/12.5=3.6 amps. So 150% = 5.4 amps, a 5 amp fuse should be close enough. A lot of devices have an initial surge startup current that is higher than their steady state draw. Also a fuse that is operated very close to it's rated value can heat up over time and blow.

13. Connector & wire connections.

A. Connectors. The best way to connect wires to pins for inserting into connector plugs & sockets is to use the correct crimper for the pins you are using. This is an inexpensive CRIMPER that works for about 95% of the pins out there. Pins can also be soldered if you use the proper equipment and techniques. Incorrect technique can result in broken wires. For most of the people out there it is best to crimp. Crimp style spade lugs for wires are fine as long as they are crimped & sized properly.

B. Connecting wires. I do not recommend any crimp style connections for wires, except spade lug terminals for power blocks. Especially the crimp on wire splices. These wire splices will cut some strains of the wire and let the contaminates in. Wire connections & splices that are soldered and covered with either shrink tubing or a good grade of electrical tape, such as 3M Super 33+, will stand up to the weather and vibrations many times longer then crimp style connectors. Soldered connections will also produce a cleaner (as in not electrical noisy) electrical connection with less voltage drop. This is a good HOW TO SOLDER web site. It doesn't talk about wiring here but the technique is the same. If you can't solder I highly recommend Posi-Lock Connectors , avail at Walmart & auto stores.

C. The use of dielectric grease on all non water-resistant connectors is recommended.

14. Wire sizing: http://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,2645.0.html

If anyone can think of anything that needs to be added, PM me.
« Last Edit: 03/10/09 2031 Hours by johnofchar » Logged

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greywolf
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« REPLY #1 on: 12/19/07 2304 Hours »
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I've seen people ask why the orange/white and orange black wires are to be avoided. Could you elaborate on why?
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Pat
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« REPLY #2 on: 12/19/07 2316 Hours »
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Quote:

greywolf wrote on 19.12.2007 18:04[/i]
I've seen people ask why the orange/white and orange black wires are to be avoided. Could you elaborate on why?




A quick look at the schematic shows these colors for the engine stop switch and starter button. Also fuel pump relay and ECM. I wouldn't want to create any unintentional circuits using any of them.

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johnofchar
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« REPLY #3 on: 12/20/07 0016 Hours »
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Yep.
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greywolf
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« REPLY #4 on: 12/20/07 0030 Hours »
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That's what I thought. It wouldn't bother me to use it to activate a relay though.
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Pat
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johnofchar
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« REPLY #5 on: 12/20/07 0039 Hours »
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It would me. Depending on where your hookup was it could do strange things. So many others to hook to I'd leave these alone.
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greywolf
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« REPLY #6 on: 12/20/07 0220 Hours »
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I would use a 1 amp inline fuse in the trigger wire. There is a large difference between a pinched wire knocking out tail and signal lights and knocking out an engine. In fact though, I already used the tail light wire.
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Pat
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johnofchar
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« REPLY #7 on: 12/20/07 0418 Hours »
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3.C. above is the easiest & I consider the best for a switched relay trip wire unless you want the function of the tail circuit.
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Wistrick
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« REPLY #8 on: 01/27/08 1350 Hours »
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Quote:

 C. Rear Brake Light Switch wire. Located just forward of the battery. A small clear white 2 wire connector, one Orange & one White/Black. Orange wire is switched Hot, no ground wire available here.


 

Just a little tip on this one.  My big hands wouldn't fit under the tank to enable me to get to this connector.   Just when I was about to rip off the tank I realize that just taking the rear gas tank mount off would allow me access.  So removing 3 bolts instead of the cowls and tank made life easier.

Just wanted to share

Dan

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msi1259
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« REPLY #9 on: 01/28/08 1046 Hours »
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Quote:

Jim Davis wrote on 28.01.2008 03:15[/i]
Does the brake light connector or any of the others mentioned here look like this:




Rear brake looks like this:

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johnofchar
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« REPLY #10 on: 01/28/08 2108 Hours »
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Rear brake switch connector. Looks like your #2 will do it.




Heated grip connector on harness. Best bet would be to order the above horn lead to match it up.


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Jim Davis
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« REPLY #11 on: 01/29/08 0822 Hours »
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Thank you guys, finally some ID photos.

The rear brake connector is definitely the Sumitomo .110 2 pole connector, I've got them!

That heated grip connector is an odd bugger, but I just found it and will stock some.



I think I'm going to use the heated grip connector and not mess with the brake connector. That way the open plug will be filled and I can trigger the relay for my fusebox from it.

Excellent!

I'll let you guys know when I have them for sale, it'll be much cheaper than buying the horn harness.



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Jim Davis, Owner, Eastern Beaver Company:
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leftlane
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« REPLY #12 on: 01/29/08 1237 Hours »
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Quote:

Jim Davis wrote on 29.01.2008 03:22[/i]
That heated grip connector is an odd bugger, but I just found it and will stock some.




Suzuki horn lead is part number 36852-06G00 and Oneida Suzuki sells them for $5.99US. I bought a couple when ordering other things, but the plan was similar to yours, to use that connector for relay control of the power distribution I have mounted in the cowl up front.  I've got a second power distribution box under the seat.

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johnofchar
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« REPLY #13 on: 01/29/08 1250 Hours »
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Quote:

Jim Davis wrote on 29.01.2008 03:22[/i]
I think I'm going to use the heated grip connector and not mess with the brake connector. That way the open plug will be filled and I can trigger the relay for my fusebox from it.



Jim, you might want to consider doing it both ways. The brake connector is a lot easier to get at with a shorter run to underseat area.

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Jim Davis
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« REPLY #14 on: 01/31/08 0226 Hours »
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Quote:

johnofchar wrote on 29.01.2008 21:50[/i]

Quote:

Jim Davis wrote on 29.01.2008 03:22[/i]
I think I'm going to use the heated grip connector and not mess with the brake connector. That way the open plug will be filled and I can trigger the relay for my fusebox from it.



Jim, you might want to consider doing it both ways. The brake connector is a lot easier to get at with a shorter run to underseat area.




Yes, I have considered that. It depends on where I end up mounting my fusebox. I'm thinking under the rear of the tank so forward to the heated grip connector would be easier from there.

On the brake connector I'd have to make up a 'go between' unit with two connectors and an extra wire coming out. For the heated grip connector I'd only need one plus as I say, it would cap that connector otherwise not used.

My plans include adding either connector to one of my fusebox kits so the customer can simply plug in rather than tapping relay switching power. Since any fusebox install will involve running wires up front, running one more to the heated grip connector doesn't seem like such a big problem.

I've ordered the connectors so I'll be able to play with it and see what I can come up with.

It's nice that the horn connector is pretty cheap from Suzuki, but I''m hoping to sell the connector to a customer who is already buying a fusebox kit and then can get the connector cheaper at the same time.

I've managed to source almost every connector on the VStrom now so I'll be able to create lots of plug and play wiring kits for the Stroms.

Thanks again guys for the help IDing those connectors.

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Shawnubis
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« REPLY #15 on: 04/16/14 2115 Hours »
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Jim (or anyone else)

Can you tell me what gage wire is appropriate for this de-restrictor plug:
http://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,10921.0.html

Thanks
Shawn
« Last Edit: 04/16/14 2146 Hours by Shawnubis » Logged

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greywolf
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« REPLY #16 on: 04/16/14 2222 Hours »
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It's a very short wire and not at all size important. 16ga or 18ga will do fine for example.
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Pat
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bobbyvstrom
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« REPLY #17 on: 04/17/14 0016 Hours »
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Anybody know where I could just buy a de-restrictor?  Or do I need one?  I've removed the secondaries.  Bob
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Bobby
Used to ride: 1955 Doodlebug scooter, '59 Ducati "Bronco" 85, '60s Allstate (Puch) 175, '60s Yamaha YDS-1 250, '71 Honda SL 350, '70 Maico w/ Honda SL 350 power, late '80s Yamaha Seca 750, '89 Yamaha FJ 1200, '70s Yamaha TT 500 and an '06 KTM 450 EXC.  Now ride a  Beautiful Red DL 1000 K6.
ib
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« REPLY #18 on: 04/17/14 0746 Hours »
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Anybody know where I could just buy a de-restrictor?  Or do I need one?  I've removed the secondaries.  Bob


   http://www.ivansperformanceproducts.com/tre.htm
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bobbyvstrom
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« REPLY #19 on: 04/17/14 1417 Hours »
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Thank you, IB.  Those things sure cost a lot for as simple as they are.  Are any forum members making these things? 
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Bobby
Used to ride: 1955 Doodlebug scooter, '59 Ducati "Bronco" 85, '60s Allstate (Puch) 175, '60s Yamaha YDS-1 250, '71 Honda SL 350, '70 Maico w/ Honda SL 350 power, late '80s Yamaha Seca 750, '89 Yamaha FJ 1200, '70s Yamaha TT 500 and an '06 KTM 450 EXC.  Now ride a  Beautiful Red DL 1000 K6.
Shawnubis
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« REPLY #20 on: 04/17/14 1613 Hours »
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Thank you, IB.  Those things sure cost a lot for as simple as they are.  Are any forum members making these things?  


I just ordered the plug (3  pin MT .090 - 2.3mm Male and Female locking connector with pins) from cycleterminal.com (would have done esatern beaver, but just got my over $100 order from him Wed (dual H4 relay kit, switchable, and 3cs, plus the male/female 16-circuit, main harness plug & pins), and this wouldn't constitute the $20 miniumum)  
This guys is fair, and in the U.S. and had my order out within an hour or so of ordering - http://www.cycleterminal.com/mt-series-090.html

A guy I work with is a Ham radio nerd/expert and had the 2 resistors and transistor on hand.  Just need some wire, and I'll be ready to build mine.

This whole thing is new to me, and I only have a feeble understanding of how it works and what it does.  But seriously, $115 for a built one? This cost, like $10, tops, with shipping to build (plug with shipping was just under $10, and the electric bits were pennies on the dollar.)  

I'd sure love to hear from others if they've purchased or built one one and what, if any, the difference is in performance. 

Thanks Greywolf for the reply on the wire size. 16g or 18g. got it.


« Last Edit: 04/17/14 1616 Hours by Shawnubis » Logged

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greywolf
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« REPLY #21 on: 04/17/14 1622 Hours »
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Thanks Greywolf for the reply on the wire size. 16g or 18g. got it.



You missed the size is not important part though. If you have 20ga on hand, it will be fine too for example.
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Pat
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Shawnubis
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« REPLY #22 on: 04/17/14 1637 Hours »
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My electronics nerd here was horrified when I said I'd just use 20g or 22g or whatever I had lying around (which, quite frankly, I got NONE just lying around)...due to resistance, etc.
Since I'm electronically challenged, how can it NOT matter??? (insert emote here of me scratching my head)   Huh?   
   

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greywolf
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« REPLY #23 on: 04/17/14 1713 Hours »
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It's only a few inches long. Voltage drop takes a much longer run before it makes any difference. There are resistor and semiconductor leads involved with a smaller diameter.
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Pat
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