Rick's LARGER BOLT ON KICKSTAND FOOT

[RichlandRick]

The spacer mentioned by Joe refers to the loose fit of the side stand in the bracket attached to the frame.  Owners have probably noticed that the sidestand leg flexes in the bracket when placed on the side stand.  This contributes to the excessive lean angle.

I measured the extra room/tolerance/play inside the bracket and found that it was slightly over 0.5 mm.  It occured to me that a washer-like shim could fix this problem.

A quick Google search for shims resulted inthe discovery that the excessive lean angle due to play in the side stand bracket is not unique to the V-Strom.  Many kinds of bikes have this problem and many riders have used washers to fix it. 

However, if the measurement I took is representative of the DL1000, a speacialty product will be needed.  You just can't find a 10 mm ID x 0.5 mm thick shim of tough material in the OD necessary.  McMaster Carr has this http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-shims/=j7cito 10 mm ID x 16 mm OD x 0.5 mm thick shim that might work, but the OD seems small for the job. 

I know a company that will perform small economical production runs of custom shims.  The cost of the shim on a per part basis wouldn't be much (maybe a dollar including postage), but I would need confidance in the needed thickness to pay for a production run.  I think this could be a cheap universal improvement to the DL1000, but I need data.

So....  DL1000 owners, if your interested in correcting your lean angle, grab your feeler guages, put your bike on the centerstand (or have soemone hold it up, and with the side stand in the up position measure the inside space between the bracket and the side stand where the bolt attaches the side stand. 

John,

Is this worthy of a data gathering poll?

Rick

[ShinyOwen]

What brand centerstand? Any pictures?

It's a Suzuki centerstand. I'll take some photos when I get back home in a few days. I assumed that my dealership deserved a visit over it. Less than 2 years old, infrequent use, and it broke? Not thrilled by this.

Rick, does the foot work easier with a Motech stand?

SO

[RichlandRick]

The Motech center stand has slightly more room that the Suzuki centerstand.  It's an educated guess at this point that if it works with the Suzuki centerstand, it will work with the Motech.   

[johnofchar]

John,

Is this worthy of a data gathering poll?

Rick

Sure you can add one if you like.

[RichlandRick]

   DL1000 sidetand foot update.   

I'm working the details for non-Suzuki brand centerstands (e.g., SW Motech). 

I have a few steel units ready for DL1000s without centerstands.  If you are actively riding your bike this time of year and can provide immiediate feedback - PM if your interested.

Beta tesing continues for centerstand equiped bikes.

Rick

[WhiteManFlail]

My side-stand gap measures .5 too. Count me in for the shim.


- - - '07 DL1000 K7 - - -

[RichlandRick]

Sorry, this is more like a blog than a post.

The DL1000 kickstand foot has been by far the most challenging/frustrating part thus far.     Enough winning.

After way too much time trying to create a foot that was both big and small at the same time  , Then that idea that seems so obvious.      Move the kickstand forward to create room for a bigger foot.

The problem with the kickstand foot originates in the "parts bin" design process that started with the SV1000.  When the DL1000 was grown "up" with longer suspension a longer kickstand was needed.  The kickstand origination point is part of the cast aluminum frame.  A cast steel piece used on many models is used to anchor the kickstand to the aluminum frame.  Changing either of these parts to accommodate the greater distance to the ground was probably not considered or immediately dismissed by the Suzuki design engineers.  The simple solution was a longer kickstand.  With limited room the foot had to be smaller.  

So.... the focus then becomes part 42330-06G01, part #6 in the drawing below.



Depending on what has been installed on the bike, there appears to be room to move the kickstand forward about 1/4" possibly 3/8" before running into inference.  That is all that is needed to install a bolt on kickstand foot with any brand of center stand.
Suzuki part 42330 shows up in many variations with costs ranging from ~$58 to well over $100.  So even if substituting another similar Suzuki part would fix the problem cost starts to become a factor.  However, if you have the energy and resources, go for it.

Another approach is to make a replacement.  I don't know if having a new cast part made is feasible.  Any constructive input on that topic would be appreciated.  

This is a very 3D part and made of steel.  If casting is not a viable solution, the central structure would need to be laser cut and the smaller structures welded into place on a jig to maintain accuracy.  This is do-able, but at a cost.

Input is welcome.

  

[bobbyvstrom]

I would bet you have thought of this already, but just in case:  How about cutting the old foot off and making a new one that's bigger.  It would not have the extra length that way and most of us have a hack saw.  It could be a weld-on unit or, if the kickstand leg is hollow, you could have an "insert" or male part that would go inside the leg and we could drill and tap the leg for set screws to hold it on.  The pressure is in the compression direction, so the set screws just would hold it in place when in the up position.  Bob

[RichlandRick]

Thanks for the feedback Bobby,

I had floated the idea of a kickstand exchange program.  I send you a modified kickstand, you send your stock kickstand into the pool.  It was quickly pointed out that this wasn't a viable solution fo any outside the US.

That got me focused on the bolt-on solution.

I guess I could run an exchange program within the US and provide a weld on foot for those outside the US or for US owners who want to weld their own.

Actually, just about anybody can find a welder willing to do a little job for cash money.

I'll think about this.

[RichlandRick]

Hocky pucks and motocross.  Changes are a foot.

A Canadian rider reported that if you ride whoops (moguls) with your DL650 like a motocross bike  the added wieght at the end of the kickstand can be an issue.  Fortunetly most of us don't ride our stroms quiote that hard.  (Although I have heard of an Australian or two that might  ).

I have had a an aluminum kickstand on my bike for over a year now.  The aluminum bottom plate reduces wieght by half and at a 1/4" thick wear is not a problem.  So very soon now all of the bolt-on DL650 plates will be made of aluminum.   

On a seperate note, regarding bikes that have been raised (e.g., using raising links), I have ordered some UHMW plastic that may work well to add another 1/2 inch to the kickstand.  So regarding raised bikes and UHMW plastic, testing soon, more later.

[RichlandRick]

Wow.  This thread is old!

We have bolt-on side stand feet for all models of V-Strom now including the new V2.



Still just $28 after all these years. 

http://www.adventuretech.biz/larger-sidekickstand-foot.html

[Urban Tangleweed]

Hey Rick, I'd like one for my 2008 DL1000, but shipping comes up as $27.00 to the UK, seems a bit steep, is it correct?

[RichlandRick]

Let me check on first class postage and get back to you. 

[Dave.A]

I installed the kickstand foot to my 2012 DL650A yesterday.  Beautifully finished and fits perfectly. 

Unfortunately, I'm still awaiting my centre stand, so I had to install this farkle whilst the bike was resting on the base & try & get everything lined up satisfactorily. 

Despite the above impediment, it still only took about 10 minutes.  Now I don't have to worry about the bike falling over quite so easily in "the soft stuff".

For the bargain basement price, ease of fitment, high quality & improvement in functionality, it's an absolute "no-brainer"

Just do it!