Buell turnsignal installation how to!

[joefromsf]

I ride my DL650 in challenging dirt a lot and no suprise, I fall down a lot. And with those falls the front turnsignals keep getting smashed. I think Suzuki sold the bike cheap as a loss leader knowing they would make it up in replacement turnsignal sales.    I'm also a bit PO'd that you have to buy full assemblies for $40-50 when the only thing I keep breaking is the plastic housing which could be sold separately for less than $10.

Since my bike had already started getting the distressed look, I just kept using electrical tape to repair my turnsignals. It worked pretty well too; for as many times as I smashed that plastic housing, I never broke a bulb and always had functioning (albeit ugly) turnsignals.

This weekend I started researching the alternatives, pouring over the turnsignal threads here and on AdvRider. I ruled out flushmounts because I thought they compromised turnsignal visibility too much. So I was starting to lean towards short stemed aftermarket turnsignals, when I saw several references to the Buell turnsignals, their flexible stems and cheap price. The other threads said they cost $5-6 each, but I just paid $12 each, still way cheaper than Suzuki ones though.

So I decided the Buells were the ticket and put them on today. Here are some general instructions and pictures. Note that this requires cutting the connectors off of the Suzuki turnsignals, but the benefit is that the stock wiring in the cowling is then unaltered. Note that no mods were required in the cowling plastic either.

Here's an example of a turnsignal I was replacing, notice all of the tape holding it together:



Here's another turnsignal showing the pieces of plactic housing that were being held together by tapes:



Parts needed for this project:

• Buell turnsignals: part numbers Y0503.02A8 and Y0504.02A8 (Harley-Davidson dealer)
  
• M8 x 1.0 nuts (2)
  
• 8mm washer (2)
  
• 8mm lock washer (2)
  
• Large washer (2)
  
• 1156A amber light bulbs (2)
  
• Electrical snap connectors (4)
  
• Connector wire from Suzuki turnsignals (2)
  

Notes:

• The M8 x 1.0 nuts have fine threads which match the threaded rod in the stem of the Buell turnsignals. These threaded rods are thinner than the stock turnsignal. If you find nuts labelled M8 x 1.25, those are course thread and won't work.
  
• If you can find locknuts, then you wouldn't need the lockwashers.
  
• I used crimp style electical connectors, the male ends have to be small enough to pass thru a M8 nut, because the Suzuki connector won't fit through.
  

Installation Steps:

1. Remove existing turnsignals and cut the connection wires from turnsignals. You can just use what is hanging out, but I wanted more length to work with so I took them apart and cut the wires where they met the bulb socket.
   
2. On the wires you just removed, strip and attach female
   ##### connectors.
   
3. Unless they happen to be the same size as the new connectors you are using (and fit thru the M8 nut), cut the connectors off of the Buell turnsignals and attach the male
   ##### connectors.
   
4. Note that in the two previous steps I staggered the lengths of the wires (see pics below) so that it was easier to pass male ends thru nuts and washers.
   
5. The Buell lights use 10w bulbs where the Suzuki uses 21w bulbs. If you use the Buell bulbs they will blink faster. I chose to replace them with 21w bulbs like the Suzuki. However the 21w bulbs are bigger and don't fit under the amber lense which is under the smoked lense. The easiest solution (and what I describe below) is to buy 21w amber bulbs and discard the amber lense. The bigger bulbs do fit under the smoked lense when the amber lense is not installed.
   
6. On Buell lights, remove smoked lense, remove amber lense, remove 10w clear bulb, insert 21w amber bulb, replace smoked lense.
   
7. Position Buell turnsignal on bike, inserting the wiring thru cowling. Use the turnsignal that has the small drain hole on the bottom when positioned on the side that you are working on.
   
8. Inside cowling, insert large washer, small washer, lock washer and nut past the male connectors on the wiring and onto the turnsignal stalk and tighten.
   
9. Take the short length of wiring that was removed from the Suzuki turnsignals, connect the new female ends to the new turnsignals and the original end to the connector in the cowling.
   
10. Repeat for other side.
    
11. Now drop your bike and see if they survive (and let me know the results).
    

Here's a pic of a Buell turnsignal after my mods, the wiring cannibalized from the Suzuki turnsignal and the nuts and washers I used:



The finished product:



And some pics showing how flexible the stems are:





I think they look pretty sharp. I did try to compare brightness with one stock and one Buell installed at the same time, but it was hard to discern any difference. I'd be interested to know if Buell has clear lenses and if they would make it brighter.  In addition to being more flexible, the Buells are also about 1" shorter than the Suzuki turnsignals.

I'll report back when I've lived with them for a while and also crash tested them in the dirt. I'm sure it will be soon as I will be heading down to Death Valley in March.

[Peter]

Now what a surprise! I read so many times about the "Buell turn signal' and thought what the hell could that be  

It is the type that I mounted a few years ago on my V-Strom ... just the rubber stem seem to have changed.



I installed them the same way as Joe did, transplanting the wires from the originals over. I used them with a pair of these Osram bulbs (for US = Silvania) that are almost clear but light up orange when fired, in 21 W. Made in Taiwan, available for Euro 7,95 / US$ 10 at www.louis.de or www.hein-gericke.de . They don't break, or never caused any other kind of trouble to me. Same as Joe I recommend them, regardless what name is on them. For Stromers up to K3, they have 10 W bulbs and will be able to use these blinkers after just changing the wire.

They are actually available in clear

[johnofchar]

Great writeup & nicely done Joe. Thanks for posting it.  

[SpeedStar]

Good job and good idea.  I had a Uly and liked the turn sigs.  They are cheap too.  I had to replace one and it was only $10 at my dealer.  Thanks for the info.

[Si]

Good job . Think I will go this way next time I give my bikes a distressing experience.

[Jantje]

nicely done. Hope to do the same. also the rear lights. or I should say specially the rear lights.
Thanks

[Preload]

Looks absolutely superb, great instructions and I notice by the pic you did not even snap a fingernail in the process.

[joefromsf]

Quote:

mark05dl wrote on 29.01.2007 13:51[/i] Looks absolutely superb, great instructions and I notice by the pic you did not even snap a fingernail in the process.

Those were my wife's hands in the pics, my trusty assistant.  

[marathonman]

Joe -

Do you have any pictures of where the stem of the Buell blinker meets the cowling?

Thanks,
marathonman

[joefromsf]

Quote:

marathonman wrote on 30.01.2007 14:52[/i] Do you have any pictures of where the stem of the Buell blinker meets the cowling?

I tried but couldn't get any good pictures in the garage this evening. Here's the best I could do:



Not sure if you've had one of the turnsignals off yet. There's a recess in the cowling that ends in a flat perpendicular surface. This surface has a keyhole shaped hole in it. The threaded rod fits into the circular portion and the nub at the end of the turnsignal stalk fits into the thinner part of the hole. The nub keeps the turnsignal aligned so that it doesn't twist. Although the Buell rod and nub are a little smaller than the caparable ones on the Suzuki turnsignal, they work fine.

The main difference is the Suzuki one also has an outer flange that meets the outer surface of the cowling and gives it s smoother look.

I hope this was useful.

--Joe

[GsVs]

Thanks .. I was wondering the same thing as marathonman (how they matched up in that area)

[renojohn]

Joe:  

Wow!!, great write-up.  Thanks for sharing.

--Is there a good source/place for ordering these?

[joefromsf]

Quote:

renojohn wrote on 31.01.2007 06:58[/i] Joe:   Wow!!, great write-up.  Thanks for sharing. --Is there a good source/place for ordering these?

Thanks John. Don't know of any online sources for Buell parts. But Buell's are distributed thru Harley Davidson, so I bought mine at the local HD shop.

--Joe

[805gregg]

Joe did you get Buell front or back turn signals? I got some Buell front and they had a very long threaded pipe (about 2"). Too long to just use washers.

[joefromsf]

Quote:

805gregg wrote on 26.03.2007 07:17[/i] Joe did you get Buell front or back turn signals? I got some Buell front and they had a very long threaded pipe (about 2"). Too long to just use washers.

Gregg,

I bought these part numbers:

Buell turnsignals: part numbers Y0503.02A8 and Y0504.02A8 (Harley-Davidson dealer)

I believe the front left is the same as the rear right and visa versa. Don't know what bike they were from.

--Joe

[Anonymous]

I found this how-to so helpful, that I spent quite a bit of time trying to find the parts online.  It wasn't easy.  

I hope these two links will at least save others some time.

The lights:
https://www.ironmachine.com/index.php?cPath=47

For extra (albeit expensive) cables:
http://www.1tail.com/sa/cart/found.asp?search_term=TURN+SIGNAL+ADAPTER+CABLES&Search.x=90&Search.y=13

http://www.1tail.com/sa/cart/detail.asp?pg={D10ACA75-5919-4924-9944-41A08816B9D2}
(As you can see, it was easier to post the search url than the product url.)

[marathonman]

Quote:

sblue wrote on 31.03.2007 14:04[/i] I found this how-to so helpful, that I spent quite a bit of time trying to find the parts online.  It wasn't easy.   I hope these two links will at least save others some time. The lights: https://www.ironmachine.com/index.php?cPath=47 For extra (albeit expensive) cables: http://www.1tail.com/sa/cart/found.asp?search_term=TURN+SIGNAL+ADAPTER+CABLES&Search.x=90&Search.y=13 http://www.1tail.com/sa/cart/detail.asp?pg={D10ACA75-5919-4924-9944-41A08816B9D2} (As you can see, it was easier to post the search url than the product url.)

sblue -

Which Adapter Cable (Part # ?) do you need for this application?

So this was a straight "plug and play" install?

Thanks,
marathonman

[Anonymous]

Quote:

sblue - Which Adapter Cable (Part # ?) do you need for this application? So this was a straight "plug and play" install? Thanks, marathonman

I actually didn't get the cables, as I'm using the ones from my broken signals.  I ordered the buell signals last week; now I'm waiting for them to arrive.  

I suppose, though, that you could order one of the two cables that are for "Suzuki-all models" square-type (Item no. 07-1108).   They look right to me -- except they're black (the connectors on my DL650K7 are gray).

Don't know if that helps any.

[catneck]

I just finished this mod to replace a broken signal. I cut off the Buell connectors and soldered on the Suzuki units. I stayed with the 10w Buell bulbs, I will try out the faster signal and see if it helps with inattentive cagers.
Thanks

[TravellingStrom]

Quote:

joefromsf wrote on 29.01.2007 15:04[/i] I'll report back when I've lived with them for a while and also crash tested them in the dirt. I'm sure it will be soon as I will be heading down to Death Valley in March.

Hi there joefromsf

I am assuming that you actually went to Death Valley in March.  Did you survive?  That is the main question.  The other, assuming you did, is did you drop the bike and if so how did the Buells handle the punishment.

My rhs blinker looks pretty much how the photo of yours did and am seriously considering this mod.  It would make my decision making easier with a final outcome from you.

Cheers
TravellingStrom

[joefromsf]

Quote:

TravellingStrom wrote on 12.05.2007 20:18[/i] Hi there joefromsf I am assuming that you actually went to Death Valley in March.  Did you survive?  That is the main question.  The other, assuming you did, is did you drop the bike and if so how did the Buells handle the punishment. My rhs blinker looks pretty much how the photo of yours did and am seriously considering this mod.  It would make my decision making easier with a final outcome from you. Cheers TravellingStrom

Yeah, I survived DV and and the turnsignals did great. I did my best to trash them, with multiple low/no speed dirt drops, including 5 in one day. I also had a more exciting crash in the dirt at 25 mph. In the crash the lense of the turnsignal got a pretty serious road rash indicating that it was scraping along in the dirt but the stalk flexed enough that it didn't break. A stock turnsignal would have been toast.

Here a pic of the side of the bike after the crash. May not be super obvious but there's road rash on the mirror, hand guards, turnsignal, crash bars and front fender. Actually the crash bars were even bent a bit.



In the field helmet repairs:



Rider toughs it out   :

[TravellingStrom]

Wow, good to see you survived then <g>  You must have been pushing the edge a bit eh!  Especially with them knobbys on.

Them Buells are definately on my list then.  Thanks for testing them

Cheers
TravellingStrom

[TravellingStrom]

I ordered a set today, but could be up to 8 weeks away as they have to be ordered in.   The good thing though, after some double checking, the parts numbers are the same down here in Oz as posted above.   And the price was only $24AU each.

Cheers
TravellingStrom

[Anonymous]

I just went through this conversion, 06/12/2007.

What I learned was.....

The Buell lights use the M8x1.00 nut, I wanted a Nylock, which is an odd size that wasn't stocked by Home Depot of Lowe's and was a royal pain to procure.

Buell doesn't sell fasteners with its parts. They suck.

The lights had to be threaded into the fairing without connectors soldered, so that the nut could be threaded onto the assembly after being fed through the fairing. The Buell wires were too short to do the soldering gracefully, unless I took apart the fairing, so I needed to solder on extensions to the Buell wires, feed the wires through the fairing, add hardware, and then solder the connectors. HASSLE!

The Buell lights I bought said 10W, the turn signals I had were marked at 10W. The blink rate is fine. I don't know where the 21W figure came from. This wasn't an issue with me.

These lights look much better than the stock lights, why, oh, why did I wait so long?

Hope that this helps someone.

RP
Boise, ID

[TravellingStrom]

I installed the Buells today, no worries, all up it took an hour, including removing the dash an extra time to reconnect the connector, duh!

I did the install pretty much the same as catneck, I notice the flash rate is a bit faster, but I reckon I can live with that, saves all the hassles of finding bulbs to fit etc.  As part of my tools of trade I have access to a gas soldering iron and heatshrink, I just used the original cable from the old blinkers and soldered them together, it looks so much more neater than adding bulky connectors.

I found the correct size Nylock nuts at a local bolt/steel shop and used the original washer.  Here's a tip if you do it this way.  Tighten the Nylock nut on the threaded stem first, before installing it, to get a thread going and I also found it useful to spray a dab of RP7(WD40 type) on the thread when I installed it.  The reason is the damm thing is so flexible, it was hard to get it to tighten because it kept bending.  But, with the thread pre cut and some lube, it was a lot easier!  

Well, all done,  now for some riding, but I am not actually in a great hurry to "crash test" the durability of these more flexible indicators!!!  

Cheers
TravellingStrom

ps. RPAUL - What year is your model?  Mine is a K6 and the turn signal bulbs are rated at 21W, both on the bulbs and in the manual.

[Bitburger]

I believe K4 and earlier have a different electrical capacity and load.  Those later than K4 will fast flash.

[Peter]

K2 - K3 = 10 W bulbs
K4 - K7 = 20 W bulbs (with no reflector in the housing, thus wasting the watts)

[TravellingStrom]

Well, I bought some 21W bulbs today, they are clear until powered then turn orange.  I removed the orange lens to get them to fit.  Funny thing though, the two lock pins on the bulbs were not opposite each other, but actually about 150 degrees apart.  So, to make them fit I had to file one off to get them in.

Time will tell whether they vibrate loose.

Cheers
TS

[joefromsf]

It's been about 8 months and thought I'd post an update. I still think these are the best alternative to the stock Suzuki turn signals. And yes, I have actually been able to break one of the Buell turn signals. If you know how and where I ride its not too suprising. However they are way more resilient than the Suzuki ones.

Note they break in a different way than the Suzuki ones do. With the Suzukis I always seem to break the black housing, with the signal lens staying intact. With the Buells, the housing stays intact but the signal lens and reflector take the beating.

If you are lucky enough to just break the lens, they can be purchased and replaced separately. If you also need a new reflector, you need to buy a new assembly, but it is easy to swap the reflector from the new assembly into the already mounted one, so you don't have to swap the whole assembly.

Here are the specific part numbers:

Y0503.02A8 - Left front or right  rear turn signal assembly (~$12)
Y0504.02A8 - Right front or left rear turn signal assembly (~$12)

Y0039.K - Outer turn signal lens (~$4)

[Anonymous]

Just replaced my stock rears with the Buells.  Looks good to have the same ones all around.  I too have managed to tear off a Buell signal.......my crash was good enough that nothing was left but the shaft and wires.