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Author Topic: TB sync pics for a DL1000  (Read 18689 times)
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Anonymous
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« on: 07/23/07 1850 Hours »
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Thanks to Big B and Steve there are two "V"'s on the road running at top notch again thanks to synced TB's. The following pics were taken during the work and I hope help others if they try to adjust their own.







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Anonymous
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« REPLY #1 on: 07/23/07 1858 Hours »
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Kyles 05 took some extra love from Brian and Steve. They removed the tank and found the rear boot almos off the TB. Even then they had trouble balancing the TBs because they were sticking from corrosion. Lots of lube spray latter and Steve found a way to hold the adjustment screw and plate so that he could tighten it to where it needed to be.
More photos





This is what the banalce on my 07 looked like before beind synced.


Thanks again to Brian and Steve for their hard work. Thank to Kyle for the great lunch! Huh?
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johnofchar
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SV-Strom & K9 ABS Wee
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« REPLY #2 on: 07/23/07 1920 Hours »
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Nice writeup, but might want to change your descriptions on the pic:



Bottom screw in the primary throttle plate synchronization adjustment screw, while the top is the same but for the secondary throttle plates.
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Anonymous
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« REPLY #3 on: 07/24/07 0008 Hours »
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Thanks John,
I didn't know the names but was trying to show which screw you actually adjust to sync the throttle bodies. ie the set screw. Smiley
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slaterbj
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« REPLY #4 on: 08/08/07 1206 Hours »
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Thanks a million for the pictures!  I just sync'd mine last night and the difference is unbelievable.  I was off 6 inches before the sync.  I also needed to tighten the chain and install the air filter gasket that was under the seat!  The previous owner said it was a tie down.   Embarrassed   I'm finding out the previous owner wasn't much of a "maintenance type" person...

Thanks a ton the pictures really helped.
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kcstrom
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08/07/06 0233 Hours
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DL1000K3
Kansas City Area (MO)
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« REPLY #5 on: 08/12/07 0252 Hours »
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Just a reminder that the amount of inches off and how bad it indicates the sync is highly depends on the fluid in the manometer.

kcstrom
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klrman
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08/20/07 0735 Hours
Posts: 130
DL1000K7
Canada
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« REPLY #6 on: 09/07/07 0830 Hours »
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Quote:

johnofchar wrote on 23.07.2007 11:20[/i]
Nice writeup, but might want to change your descriptions on the pic:



Bottom screw in the primary throttle plate synchronization adjustment screw, while the top is the same but for the secondary throttle plates.





That top screw for adjusting the secondary throttle plates.....how does one adjust the
secondary throttle plates?  Never heard it mentioned before?

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johnofchar
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« REPLY #7 on: 09/10/07 0043 Hours »
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Quote:

klrman wrote on 07.09.2007 03:30[/i]
That top screw for adjusting the secondary throttle plates.....how does one adjust the
secondary throttle plates?  Never heard it mentioned before?



That's because nobody does, they just remove them.  Huh?

If you really what to know, remind me in a couple weeks and I'll do a little write-up.

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klrman
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08/20/07 0735 Hours
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DL1000K7
Canada
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« REPLY #8 on: 09/10/07 2027 Hours »
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Thanks!  I have a K7 and most say it actually gets worse if the Secondaries are removed, but just received my shop manual and will have a good look there first.  BTW, I can't find 5/32 fuel line anywhere in Canada.  Do you know where I can get that as well as connectors for my TBS extensions?  Anywhere in USA is fine, just can't find it.  Maybe I need different connector sizes too on each side as I will be using a Twinmax to do the TBS but I don't have it yet to see what sizing I need.
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savvy
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06/15/07 2143 Hours
Posts: 51
K3 DL1000
pickering, ont, canada
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« REPLY #9 on: 09/10/07 2322 Hours »
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Hey KLR man, i spent a couple weeks looking for 5/32 vaccuum tubing and couldn't find it anywhere.  finally i got a guy at the auto parts in Canadian Tire to actually bring out all his tubing and there was a spool of it unlabled.  i thought there was some kind of conspiracy going on and some one was buying up all the 5/32 tubing.
 only needed 3 feet of it.
mike
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johnofchar
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« REPLY #10 on: 09/11/07 0050 Hours »
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1/8" or 3mm is better anyway, it has a snugger fit.
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klrman
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08/20/07 0735 Hours
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DL1000K7
Canada
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« REPLY #11 on: 09/23/07 0445 Hours »
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savvy: I found 1/8 and 5/32 vacuum hosing at Napa so I got that.  I guess my mistake was asking for fuel lines which nobody had as it never occured to me to ask for vacuum lines at the time.   Thanks Johnofchar, I guess I will use 1/8 now if it is more snug.  Never got my Twinmax to do my TBS yet.  Looks like  Canada Customs is holding it thinking it is  some bomb detonating device or something like that :Smiley
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aussiejack
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04/12/06 1141 Hours
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Ballarat Australia
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« REPLY #12 on: 10/13/07 0932 Hours »
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What effect does the IAP sensor have when doing TBS. Can I just hook up to extension hoses and adjust or does the IAP have to be disconected?
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Anonymous
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« REPLY #13 on: 03/29/08 2356 Hours »
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On the third picture down there is a small vacuum cylinder with a hose looping out of it.  When I set my TBS I noticed that the hose is no longer there on my Strom.  Can anyone tell me where it goes too?

Thanks you...
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johnofchar
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« REPLY #14 on: 03/30/08 0353 Hours »
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It will run a bit better if you have this hooked up. The canister is the vacuum damper for the IAP (intake air pressure or map) sensor which is mounted at the rear of the air box. One side of the canister should have a hose going to one of the vacuum ports on the forward throttle body & the other side should have a hose going to the sensor.
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Anonymous
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« REPLY #15 on: 03/30/08 1546 Hours »
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Thank you I seem to be missing the hose going to the sensor.  I suspect the previous owner disconnected it.
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zul sun
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« REPLY #16 on: 07/03/08 1038 Hours »
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hi guys just wondering where does the rear vacuum port goes to??? the picture for the rear vacuum port were not so clear.
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johnofchar
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« REPLY #17 on: 07/03/08 1351 Hours »
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There are 2 vacuum ports on each throttle body, one in use & one capped off. You want to use the capped off ones. They are at the bottom of the TB, on the front side of the rear & back side of the front.
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Hanadarko
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12/05/07 0028 Hours
Posts: 285

DL1000K8
Milwaukee WI USA
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« REPLY #18 on: 07/26/08 2036 Hours »
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anyone ever put anything on the screw/spring when done?
like nail polish?

I swear I have heard that but dont see how (if) it would help anyways...

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Hanadarko
MSF BRC/ERC
CDL Class: AM-XT
2008 Suzuki DL1000
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johnofchar
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« REPLY #19 on: 07/26/08 2108 Hours »
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You have to clean the screw & top of spring well first. Then apply FN polish to glue the screw to the spring. But from my experience the screw really doesn't move anyway.
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IowaVee
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08/09/06 0523 Hours
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DL 1000 K3
Iowa, USA
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« REPLY #20 on: 07/31/08 0357 Hours »
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My "set" screw seems to be backed out almost all of the way....Just a thread or two remain with the end of the screw still touching the plate.  Is this "normal".  I was happy with the guage reading as being spot on (using the same gauge for each side one at a time to make sure I was getting good readings).  The bike runs much better after the TB Sync.......Thanks for these pictures and everyone's know-how...
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DL 1000 K3 with Sharealike Clutch Basket Mod.
johnofchar
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« REPLY #21 on: 07/31/08 0425 Hours »
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Yes that's normal for the screw.
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Peter
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10/12/03 1453 Hours
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DL1000K2 (sold)
Singapore
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« REPLY #22 on: 10/04/08 0706 Hours »
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Quote:

johnofchar wrote on 10.09.2007 07:43[/i]

Quote:

klrman wrote on 07.09.2007 03:30[/i]
That top screw for adjusting the secondary throttle plates.....how does one adjust the
secondary throttle plates?  Never heard it mentioned before?



That's because nobody does, they just remove them.  Huh?

If you really what to know, remind me in a couple weeks and I'll do a little write-up.




Few weeks  Grin  Grin

It's quite easy actually. They are adjusted to the same gap after manually closing them. Some pics are here http://www.v-stromforum.de/kb.php?mode=article&k=15 , it's German but the pics (from the third) tell the story. Adjust to 0.6 - 0.8 mm, important is only they are set the same.

Suzuki says it is not needed. The author of the above knowledge base article says it does make a difference. What else.

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Peter
PEOPLE WHO HAVE VISIONS SHOULD GO TO SEE THEIR DOCTOR
Randy
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09/08/08 0453 Hours
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calif./colorado
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« REPLY #23 on: 12/16/08 0049 Hours »
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Did my adjustment , Thank's for the great info. I did come up with a pretty good way of getting vac. hose's on the nipples on the T B 's. Took long flat screwdriver, used elect. tape to attatch vac. tubing. Put it on an angle to slip right on the nipple. put alittle lube on it and voila, it slipped on with no cussing ,no vac. leaks, no muss no fuss.
piece of cake. my T B'S were of approx. 5 inches!!  1100 mile's on this machine.Best bike for street i ever owned.
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Columbo
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05/22/04 2228 Hours
Posts: 275
'04 DL1000
So. California
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« REPLY #24 on: 02/09/09 2242 Hours »
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I just did the TBS using a Twin Max.  It can get it "perfect enough" at idle, but then it's not balanced at say 3,000 rpm.  

Should I try to get a better balance at the higher rpm??
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Peter
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DL1000K2 (sold)
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« REPLY #25 on: 02/10/09 1636 Hours »
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Adjust it at 1200 rpm.
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Peter
PEOPLE WHO HAVE VISIONS SHOULD GO TO SEE THEIR DOCTOR
johnofchar
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« REPLY #26 on: 02/10/09 1640 Hours »
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That's what the book says and works fairly well. If you adjust for balance at around 3500 RPM it may improve the low-mid range a tad, but the idle may also be a wee bit rougher.
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Columbo
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05/22/04 2228 Hours
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'04 DL1000
So. California
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« REPLY #27 on: 02/10/09 1640 Hours »
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Thanks!  I'll leave it just where it is and put all the plastic back on.  Huh?
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Formerly owned; 1970 Kawaski G3TR (UP two teeth on the front sprocket and rode the freeways!), 1972 Honda CB350K (thought the 450 was too heavy), 1974 Honda CB550K (thought the 750 was too heavy), 1982 Honda GL1100 naked, 1983 Honda FT500 Ascot, 1998 Suzuki Bandit 1200S, 1999 BMW R1100RA
mcmann
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06/12/09 0112 Hours
Posts: 9
'06 DL650 '07 DL1000
Lawrenceville, GA
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« REPLY #28 on: 06/17/09 0214 Hours »
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Found a GENERAL TECH INTERNATIONAL 53135 "VPT" STRAIGHT LONG NOSE PLIER 11" at the local ACE Hardware store.

Makes it very easy to remove the plugs, attach hoses, and adjust the front cylinder throttle body screw.  My '07 DL1K front cylinder was +6% higher pressure than the rear.  Runs much better now at low RPM!

http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(0rrgkgfowvysqj55ybci2155)/productDetails.aspx?SKU=2095180

 
"VPT" STRAIGHT LONG NOSE PLIER 11"

« Last Edit: 06/17/09 0220 Hours by mcmann » Logged

Eternal Teenager
MPH
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09/15/06 2308 Hours
Posts: 43
DL1000K4
Gurnee, IL (Chicago)
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« REPLY #29 on: 08/03/09 2217 Hours »
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I posted a question on the regional boards (midwest, Chicago area) regarding my TBS issue.  I was off only about 1" of ATF (similar, I understand, to water, which I've just now learned is about 15 times more sensitive than mercury, i.e. 15" of water = 1.1" mercury), and wanted to make it "perfect".  I made a very small incremental change on the screw counterclockwise and it went from 1" off in one direction to about 15" off in the other, and I couldn't get it back.  There is a post earlier in this thread where someone mentioned that their set screw was engaged only maybe one thread and I now suspect that it's possible that I got my set screw disengaged altogether.  If that's the case, how does one go about getting it re-engaged?

TIA for any help you can provide,
Mark
DL1000K4
28K miles
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