External Fuel Filter modification

[Anonymous]

Click this to see K or L designation meaning
It should be noted that the K7 - L1 650 filter is quite different.
Photos & discussion of K7 & up further down in this topic. See post 231 and later. Note that the L2 (2012) and later pump is different from either Wee pump. JW



OK, here is the mod directions....

First, let me say these directions are not my brainchild, I'm not smart enough for that. They were sent to me by a fellow international Vstrom traveller and fellow Aussie. Grant and Jules have been travelling S.America for at least 2 years and are now in Africa - yep all the way 2-up on a Vstrom. Their story is on HorizonsUnlimited here

http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/tstories/guerin/

Actually I understand that someone sent Grant the original idea. So if I find out the original genius, I will edit this post and credit them immediately.

Oh yeh before we start, as usual all the normal disclaimers apply - read my poor plagiarized instructions carefully, make your own judgements and enquiries, don't attemt it unless you are at least reasonably mechanically useful and don't blame me or anyone else if anything goes wrong..... seriously!!!

This mod involves drilling a hole inside the original HP filter outlet fitting so that HP unfiltered fuel is allowed to enter the HP outlet line from the tank to the bike. You then must fit an external car FI filter using FI hose. Cost for me was around $40Aus and now I can replace the FI filter for about $20 in a few minutes. If that sounds OK to you, read on....

EQUIPMENT
The in-line hose mods are relatively straight forward, the important factor is to buy a suitable fuel injection filter that is not overly large.

Here are some part numbers for suitable filters (I am told - not checked)

Nissan 16400-72L00
NPK -G-5237-K
WIX-G-33477

Grant could not get any of these in Argentina, however, he used one for a Renault (RF1004002) and I used a Valvoline VF34 (available in Australia) for my vstrom.

I would imagine any quality fuel injection filter will suffice providing you can find room for it and it uses the same size fuel lines.

On the matter of fuel lines Grant used hydraulic hose with standard hose clamps as it was impossible to find the correct clamp clips, these are working fine. I used Fuel Injection hose 7.5mm ID and 4 x SS hose clamps, this worked fine for me.

You also need a drill & bits.

PROCEDURE

HP FILTER BYPASS
The original fuel filter by-pass mod requires a little patience but is easy if you take care.

First Remove the pump/filter/guage assembly from the tank. If that skips too much, you should not be doing this mod..... Take care not to damage the fuel guage float when removing the assembly from tank. Clean the pre-filter and the pump "well" to get all the crud out.

 
<span style="color:red;">Grants Pre-filter pic (my filter was worse)</span>


<span style="color:red;">This is another view of the pre-filter & bracket</span>

Take very careful note of the HP pump electrical wire connections - take pics or draw it - you want to reassemble it the same way.


<span style="color:red;">HP pump & filter guage & base plate assembly</span>

Remove the guage assembly, then wires and locating bolts to allow the pump/filter to be removed from the plate. It could be tight, there is an o-ring seal on the HP filter outlet. Take note where the filter cartridge outlet (female assembly) on the original filter slides over the male fuel injector supply line with the o-ring. Inside the fuel filter outlet female assembly is the point in the cartridge where it is necessary to drill a 4mm - 4.5mm hole (spot is marked on the diagram).


Fuel flow diagram - <span style="color:orange;">to pre-filter (orange), </span>  <span style="color:green;">through HP pump (green), </span>  <span style="color:red;">pump to filter element (red), </span>  after filter element (black)

Holding original filter assembly upside down and inspect the female outlet fitment.  You will notice a flat section that is the base of the filter housing. In this flat section is a semi triangular hole.  Notice that the flat section is actually the moulded base of the high pressure filter housing and the hole is the HP filtered fuel oulet.


<span style="color:red;">Original HP fuel outlet hole - highlighted red</span>

Note this pic above shows filter removed from pump, you don't need to do this for this modification - leave the pump in place.

Close inspection will show that by gently drilling a hole into the shelf at a slight angle towards the high pressure filter cartridge you will pierce the part of the filter assembly holding the filter cartridge without compromising the pressure vessel security ie: allowing the filter assembly to leak back to the fuel tank.

 

 

This process by-passes the original high pressure filter whilst still maintaining the standard high pressurised system.  It all works effectively with the only downside being you may need to replace the non-original filter within 20,000kms as a lot of muck in the genuine filter tends to leech out, after that the changes should be less frequent. After I drilled the hole, I shook the filter many times to get the fuel out and with it came the most amazing amount of black muck.....

Thats it for the filter bypass!! Now reassemble everything and do the external tank stuff.

FIT NEW FILTER
Basically the shorter the new fuel lines are the better it is, hence, the filter position as per the photo below.

 

This is due to the volume to be pressurised is increased by an extra filter.  The new fuel line from filter to tank is a little tricky as you still need to be able to lift the tank.  Play around with it for what suits you best.  That's the easy part!

Remove the HP FI hose from the bike. You need to cut the original FI quick connect fittings off the original hose. The original hose is nylon with a loose rubber outer. When cutting, take care as there is an o-ring on the quick connect fitting barb for sealing which could be easy to destroy. I cut about 5mm from the end of each barb, then cut down to the end of the barb, then used pliers to "un-peel" it like an apple so I didn't cut the o-ring.

Fit the original quick connect fittings to the new FI hose using clamps to secure. Obviously play around with lengths of hose from tank to filter and filter to bike FI, so that the filter is in the best position and you can lift the tank easily in future. Use clamps on the FI filter too, that should be obvious.

NOTES
Whilst drilling the by-pass hole you will drill for about 2mm - 3mm through hard plastic until you pierce into the cavity.  Take care, you don't need lots of pressure it only hard plastic. Take care, a little fuel may spurt as you break through.

Whatever you do don't pierce outside of housing as this necessitates buying a whole new filter cartridge anyway! You would need to be very rough to do that though.

Regards and best wishes to all that try this out. It works for me in Aus in Summer and for Grant and he currently is travelling in Africa also in Summer. I figure if there was going to be problems with this mod it will be in the heat - but all fine so far.


Skillo
http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/tstories/skillington/

[johnofchar]

This looks like a go & thanks much for posting it Skillo. I checked out the mod & helped with a few photos. This will work for all DL1000's & 04-06 DL650's.

Here are some later pics:

Drilled hole (0.186" bit) & triangular OEM hole.



The next five pics are drill bit angles.







Hole at bottom of filter chamber.


I'm also looking for a slightly smaller external filter that will fit the bill.

[Anonymous]

Just a quick post to say I have put about 3000km on my bike since the filter modification riding in up to 33 degrees celcius in both city traffic jams and highway. So far I've had nothing but a sweet running motorcycle with not a single problem and seems to have fixed a few little issues I guessed may have been due to fueling - ie blocked filter. So far I'm more impressed with this little mod than anything else I have done to the bike.... Highly recommended if your filter needs replacement.

John

[DG K3 1000]

John – I posted the following last year in late July and you diagnosed problem as High Pressure Fuel Filter with which I must concur as cannot get problem fixed through other approaches.   Lived with problem for balance of last season, too cheap to get it fixed, but want to start this year off without the issue.

I posted this on Drivability issues - only one response (thanks John). Have yet to have opportunity to take to shop - work and crap weather have inhibited so question still stands............

"On a recent trip from Vancouver BC to Cannon Beach Or I had some problems with acceleration at high RPM’s. On way south when cruising at about 4000 rpm in either 5th or 6th gear, the bike when the throttle opened wide to pass, did not seem to have the same fast pick up I recall from the past. On trip home at same rpm’s and opening the throttle the engine really stumbled, felt like running on one cylinder. Back of to about ¾ quarter throttle and the problem seemed to go away. Experimented by getting rpm’s at 5000+ and same issue arose. Any ideas? In recent rides around home (limited opportunity to replicate – no long rides) the problem seems more like the southbound issue – just a little slower acceleration than I recall.

Don’t want to head to shop without some ideas – good place I go to but they are one mechanic short these days and so pretty busy and maybe not able to really examine problem. Thanks in advance for any assistance."


When I saw this posting re an external filter, I was happy to see what certainly looks like a better solution than buying a new $200 fuel filter.  Talked to my mechanic and he thinks it looks doable and is a good option.  As I am heading for Cabo San Lucas in mid March from Vancouver, BC Canada and I do not want the problem to get even worse or lead to total failure at some point on the Baja.  I am going to get the work done next week or week after and wonder if you have had an opportunity to source any other fuel filters – especially smaller – that you believe will work?  Also wonder whether you have had any luck in getting an old filter to work with re drilling?

Appreciate any and all assist you may be able to provide.  

Thanks David

[Compared To What]

FYI guys. . . .

It's "stuff"/info like this that sets this forum apart from so many others as far as I'm concerned.....!

Thanks Skillo and Thanks John!!

[johnofchar]

Sorry, but no on both counts. If your mech looks at the filter carefully he should be able to drill the hole properly. It goes in at a bit of an angle.

I was trying to find a filter that had a removable, cleanable element. But doesn't look like they are made for FI engines that require 43 PSI.

[DG K3 1000]

Thanks for the update.  I will let you know how we make out once done.

[DG K3 1000]

Took some time to find a filter – actually bought one at an auto parts store that looked small enough to fit but exit end of filter had a 90 degree bend that I thought might be a problem and it was.  The filter was a Fram 5237 which I do not recommend as my mechanic (no I don’t have pictures as I am not a competent DIY’er) said was a problem.  Will be able to return so no damage.

Mechanic purchased a NAPA 3310 which he felt fit the bill and I am happy to report that it seems to have resolved the problem.  I say seemed as only done today and only able to do short ride to verify response but all seemed good.  Of course the shop gave me the lecture about the potential of fire if the hoses attached to filter ever failed and leaked gas on the hot engine surface but that is an unlikely event if you take care to inspect the hoses whenever you need to pull tank for routine maintenance.

Based on short ride the $33 for the NAPA filter is a bargain vs the $200 + for the in tank high pressure filter from Suzuki!  Yes being a ‘non-wrencher’ I had to pay for a mechanic to do work – shop rate of $85 per hour – not sure of how long this was charged at as other items done.  Next time –if ever – this happens the cost will be minimal – a new filter and maybe some hose and clamps.  

Thanks to Johnofcar (and of course to Silko for the work he has put into this mod) for his wise and patient advice on this problem.  I am heading to Cabo San Lucas next week feeling much more secure having this problem corrected.  

This site provides all of us, regardless of mechanical and other abilities to pay attention to the important things an still keep riding with confidence.  I would encourage others to follow this fix when you find a failure in your high pressure filter.

David

[Peter]

German Forum http://www.v-stromforum.de , reported by member Sabu:
Renault filter part-no 6001021534 being a good fit, flow is measured with 1,150 ml in 30 s.

[Stromclod]

Ok, just did this mod on my 04 1000. Seems to work well. Not nearly as hard as I thought it might be once I got it apart and looked at the actual parts and compared them to Skillo's instructions and pics. I haven't finished putting the bike back together yet but I ran the flow test and my flow went from 600ml in 30 seconds to just a hair under 1200ml in 30 seconds using a Wix 33310 fuel filter. I haven't quite figured out exactly where I want the filter yet. It's a hair bigger than I'd like and awfully close to the TB linkages. I'll probably wire tie it or maybe velcro it to the inside frame rail so it doesn't foul the linkages or rub on anything then run it for 5 or 10K miles and replace it with one a bit smaller if I can find one.

Suzuki dealer didn't have the o-rings in stock so I reused the originals. They looked to be in great shape and I lubed them up per John's advice and haven't noticed any leaks. I'll keep an eye on it. Filter was only about $9.  OTOH the only place around here that had fuel injection hose charged $9.37/ft. Pricey stuff, but sturdy looking. I might have a total of $45 in this including a can of carb cleaner and 4 FI clamps. That's a lot better than $200 for the Suzuki filter! I'll finish her up tomorrow if I can and take her for a ride and let you all know how it goes. Thank you Skillo for this excellent mod!

[johnofchar]

For a clamp you could try using a longer bolt for one of the engine frame (the frame that hangs down from the main frame the engine bolts to) mounts & a nyloc nut. Use this as a mounting point for some sort of clamp.

Regular FI fuel hose should be sufficient as the pressure is not that high at 43 PSI.

[Stromclod]

Got everything back together today and took her for a ride. I zeroed out my PCIII via the buttons before taking off to see if the filter was indeed my top-end problem. A very noticeable improvement. Performance improved a lot across the whole rpm range, as well as the top end, so my filter was definitely clogged up. Didn't really notice how much performance had degraded over time till I did this and got a new filter in there. I think this is the ticket, especially if you rack up a few miles and will need to replace your filter every so often or travel where you might get some bad gas.  Save some bucks and make things easier at the same time!

 I was able to keep the filter out of the way with a few wire ties. I didn't have anything good to make a bracket out of but plan on something a bit more permanent in the future. I would still like to find a bit smaller filter for some extra space. It wouldn’t take a much smaller one and then you probably wouldn’t need any mount or wire ties at all. I just wanted to be sure the TB linkages didn’t rub against the filter. I’ll be sure to post back if I run into anything unforeseen. Thanks for the help and encouragement. If I can do this, anyone can do this.

[johnofchar]

I looked around for a smaller one when this first came up. Didn't find any, but there are probably some out there somewhere. But smaller may equal less flow rate, so be careful.

[Stromclod]

Quote:

johnofchar wrote on 06.07.2008 18:49[/i] I looked around for a smaller one when this first came up. Didn't find any, but there are probably some out there somewhere. But smaller may equal less flow rate, so be careful.

John I may have found a suitable smaller filter. I found this searching the internet (best price I've found on this so far). Clicky!

I found the Golan website here  for more specs on the Peak Flow Mini fuel filter. They didn't list pressure specs so I wrote them an email and got the following from Ian Golan:

Quote:

Our filters can withstand up to 200 psi of working pressure. I think they will be more than suitable for the application you specified. Thank you for expressing interest in our products.

Small, good flow, 10 micron filtering, washable. If it lives up to claims it may be perfect?? Anyone ever use one of these on anything?

I also want to change to a different type filter not only because of the size but also because of what may be a problem since I've done the mod. After about 2000 miles the wix filter 33310 started to act like it was clogging up. I expected this due to what was said about dirt from the in-tank HP filter leaching out yuk so I replaced it and everything seemed fine...for a while. Now less than 1000 miles later, again the bike is acting starved of fuel, but it seems intermittent. I need to ride it some more to see if its consistent. Also, if I have time this weekend I'll try to do a flow test on the new 33310 w/like 900 miles on it to see if it is clogging. Anyway, the Peak Flow filter looks promising.

[RockyMtnRoadRash]

I did this mod this weekend, and everything seems to be fine at idle.  I'm gonna give it the test run on the way to work tommorow.   Today was miserable weather and the possibility of being crouched down in the rain with gas going everywhere just totally failed to appeal to me.

[johnofchar]

Stromclod,

The flow test should tell all. Don't know if the 10 micron filtering is good enough for the injectors.

[Stromclod]

Well, I ran the flow test and it came out just fine. Ran it twice actually and got 1200ml plus some in 30 sec ea time. It may have found my culprit anyway. The gas was cloudy and some water settled in the bottom of the beaker. Flushed the tank and put on a new filter (wix 33310) anyway. Wasn't much water but enough to form a small pool at the bottom of the beaker. Ran fine to/from work today, about 100 miles roundtrip. Time will tell.

  I hope the 10 microns will be enough as I went ahead and ordered one of these and will give her a go. While checking out various filters around the net, it seemed most of the filters were in like the 10-35 micron range so even though I don't really know whats required I figured it'd be enough?? It'll probably be a while before I actually get it installed but I'll be sure to post my results positive or negative.

Terry

[johnofchar]

I did some more research an 10-micron seems to be fairly common for the pump outlet side. This small one is nice, but will require frequent cleaning. In comparison to the OEM filter which is 2.5" x 1" it is small, and the OEM pleating gives a lot of filter area. I would probably clean it about every plug change.

[RonJS]

Quote:

johnofchar wrote on 05.07.2008 16:22[/i] Regular fuel hose should be sufficient as the pressure is not that high at 43 PSI.

Is there any reason I can't simply splice a fuel filter into the existing hose from the tank to the fuel injectors?

If that's possible, can anyone tell me what the internal diameter of that hose is?

I have a 2002 DL-1000 with almost 79,000 miles on it.  A couple of thousand miles ago I was 9,000 miles into doing an IBA 12-12ths and stopped for gas along I-80 in Nebraska.  The gas station was offering 89 octane gas 10 cents a gallon cheaper than 87 octane.  I guess the kicker was that the 89 octane was actually 10% ethanol and not "up to" 10% ethanol.  The bike ran sluglish on this 89 octane and above 4,000 rpms it would balk.  No fun in a state with a 75 mph speed limit.     As soon as I got into Iowa I filled up with 87 octane which contained "up to" 10" ethanol and the slugishness and balking went away.

Recently, when passing, I notice similar slugishness over 5,000 rpms and it seems like the engine almost wants to die at 6,000 rpms.  Holding the throttle wide open, the bike would not go above 6,000 rpms.  Since I just changed the spark plugs and cleaned the K&N air filter,  I'm thinking my problems are the same fuel filter ones discussed in this thread.  I guess I could also be wrong.....

While puttering around town is no big deal, I am concerned that without any attention, sooner or later it going to get worse and perhaps strand me far from home or cause damage elsewhere.  I'm not much of a wrench, but thought I would try a little drilling.

Ron

EDIT:  I guess I should have mentioned that my inability to get over 6,000 rpms is on the highway while traveling around 70 mph.  While a bit surging at times over 6,000 rpms, no problem going to red line in 1st & 2nd gears.

[johnofchar]

RonJS, run the fuel flow test, it's the only way to know for sure. No you can't splice the OEM fuel line as it's plastic.

[RonJS]

Quote:

johnofchar wrote on 22.09.2008 22:04[/i] RonJS, run the fuel flow test, it's the only way to know for sure. No you can't splice the OEM fuel line as it's plastic.

Many Thanks Sir!

I just ran the fuel test (3 times to make sure) and in 30 seconds got 225 ML of gas. (+ or - 5% ...each time)

That doesn't sound good to me.  

It's too bad that I can't easily splice into the OEM fuel line.  Since I might wish to do some short rides while waiting for replacement o-rings, would you happen to know what size fuel line to get?  I'm not sure which new filter I should/will get.  I'm thinking maybe the Napa one mentioned earlier in this thread.

Thank You again for your fine guidance!

Ron

[johnofchar]

That will depend on the size of the filter port tube. The feed tube from the fuel pump assembly is 8mm.

[RonJS]

Quote:

johnofchar wrote on 23.09.2008 22:14[/i] That will depend on the size of the filter port tube. The feed tube from the fuel pump assembly is 8mm.

Thanks Again John!

The new OEM gaskets were delivered so I started the job this past weekend.

The filter on the bottom of the fuel pump (after 78,7000 miles) looked like:



As Skillo mentioned, I took care not to cut the green gaskets...



and with the fine help from the info already in this thread, drilling the hole in the high pressure filter was a snap.  Even for a poor wrench like me.

The time consuming problem I was having was finding the right fuel line lenght sizing to fit the Napa 3310 fuel filter as others have done.  Having additional wires in the way (for the Stebel horn and dashboard cig. lighter plug/Aux. power outlet) made things a bit tighter than I had liked.





I had flushed out the high pressure filter as best I could by squeezing a full one of these...

..into the triangular HP filter hole.  The gas that came out looked only a little bit cloudy at first but most all of the debris was plastic shavings from drilling the hole.

Since others have reported a need to soon change out the filter and my being saddled with 10 thumbs, I decided I would at least temporarily put the filter in the more easily accessable space under the rear of the gas tank bolt down area.




I have not done a fuel flow test.  One of my friends who stopped by for a beer, while I was putting everything back together, said the addition (almost 2 feet) of fuel line should not make much of a difference.

While I have now only rode about 50 miles, all of the stuttering and other problems have vanished and the bike runs great!  It also seems that the noise volume of the fuel pump when starting the bike has deceased around 40%.

For now, I'm going to keep my fingers crossed and ride with this configuration.

Ron

[johnofchar]

Looks like a good place to put the filter, I would go as far as making a permanent bracket in there. The extra line shouldn't make any difference at all.

[RockyMtnRoadRash]

I have housed mine thusly:



closer up



Just kinda turn your head sideways and it'll make sense.

[tomatocity]

This is a very good mod resource and a must do for me. Big benefits for a few dollars.

[TravellingStrom]

I have emailed Skillo today, hopefully he will re register and his name will appear again instead of Anonymous.  I actually saw his install first hand at the Horizons Unlimited meeting last weekend.  It would be nice to have this filter accessible, so the rear mounted one would be nice.

The only thing he was unsure about was whether this could be used on a DL 650

Cheers
TS

[johnofchar]

The only thing he was unsure about was whether this could be used on a DL 650

Cheers
TS

The K7 and up 650 pump is quite different & I don't see a way to bypass the filter. An early 650 or 1000 pump assembly could be used in the late 650 if this is a requirement. The following is copied from another topic.

Curiosity got the better of me so I ordered a #3 & #7 from the below diagram.



Number 3 is nothing more the a pump holder & support frame.



This is the bottom view of what is referred to in the service manual as the fuel pressure regulator holder (#7). The center hole is where the regulator fits, the right hole is where the fuel discharge pipe (pump assembly outlet to fuel line) fits & the left hole is where the pump discharge enters the 'holder'.



This is the top view of the pressure regulator holder. The red circled area is where the high pressure fuel filter resides. Why Suzuki doesn't refer to this in the service manual or parts book I have no idea. I can just get a peak of the filter though the small inlet hole & shining a bright light on the opposite side reveals it's in there.



So if you have a fuel flow problem on a K7 & up wee that cleaning the low pressure filter screen doesn't fix, replace the pressure regulator holder, readily available (received 4 days afrer ordering from MR Cycle) at $79.70, part # 15610-27G00.

[Crew Dawg Dave]

Ron,

Looking at your picture you might want to check for chaffing on your fuel line.  That edge of the tank support might cut into the hose with "bad" results   

You could cover the fuel hose with convulted tubing (usally used for wiring) and that should help, but I would try to re-route away from metal edges. 
The tubing you can get from the auto part store...  Or another idea is to take some old fuel line, about 2 inches and slice it down the middle (length wise) and slide it over the metal edge of the tank support, and you could just glue it in place with some RTV... 

A Side note: I wish I had seen this thread a couple of years ago as I had a 2002 Vee that had a rust problem in the tank and I had to pay for a filter change... read$$$$$  The bike never ran right    and I ended trading up to a 2006 Vee... So in a way I guess I did "win"... Red is faster anyways!!! 

Crew Dawg Dave

[TravellingStrom]

Thanks for the info John, a totally different system by the looks.

Cheers
TS