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Author Topic: How do I adjust my throttle bodies?  (Read 13321 times)
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Deceased VSRI Administrator
Former Member
10/19/03 1511 Hours
Posts: 11990

SV-Strom & K9 ABS Wee
Charleston SC USA
« on: 07/19/09 2008 Hours »
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DL650 2004-2006 only.

Click here for a nice DL650 throttle body adjustment manual in PDF format.

DL650 2007-2009.

This (click here) procedure will get it close, within 1/2" of mercury. Of course the SDS (dealer diagnostic system) is the best way to do it correctly.

DL1000 - The following procedure is for all DL1000's.

1. Remove the fairings. Strictly speaking, you only have to remove the right side panel & the right side black frame cover. However, in order to get that off, you have to remove the front under panel right side push rivets.

2. In your mind, visualize the "Vee" of your Strom's engine. Now, visualize how the throttle bodies sit inside the vee of the engine: Each throttle body is like a soup can that sits on the (inside) side of its cylinder, pointing up toward the air box/air filter. Now, visualize how each TB has a small brass tube (nipple) sicking out of it, pointing toward the opposite TB. Each of these two nipples (one on each TB) has a small black rubber plug on the end. These plugs look like little bullets. Our objective is to find these two nipples, and then put an extension tube of vacuum tubing on each one so that the next time we sync the TB's, we won't have to go through this again.

3. Find the front nipple and pull off the cap. The front one is much easier to reach than the rear, but it is still tough. I did mine bare handed. Depending on your patience, knuckle size and karma, you may want to enlist the help of some long needle nose pliers, a reliable 10 year old girl with small hands, or whatever other resources you have. I don't want to scare you off of doing a TB sync, but finding the brass nipples and attaching the extensions is BY FAR the hardest part of the job.

4. Now that you have the cap off, take it down to your local full service hardware or auto parts store.

5. First, find some vacuum tubing. Use the end cap you have with you to verify the inner diameter of the tube. Since this is rubber, it needn't be exactly the same inner diameter, but get it close. 5/32" ID tubing will work but 1/8" is better but harder to find. The tubing you want will be labeled "vacuum tubing", and is intended for precisely this purpose. It has very thick walls to prevent it from collapsing under the vacuum. Don't get the flimsy thin stuff since it could collapse and then you are back to square one. When you find the right tubing, cut off a few feet. (BTW, I think I paid $0.35 per foot for mine, so this is cheap.)

6. Take your newly acquired tubing down to the aisle where they have the billions of little fiddly parts in all the drawers. You are looking for tubing connectors. It is the sort of thing that is used to connect one piece of tubing (such as you now have in your hands) to another: It has a ridged tube on either side and a broad ring in the center, the outer diameter of which will be approximately equal to the outer diameter of your tubing. You are going to need two of them to serve as the ends of your extension tubes. They will be a couple of inches long: You stuff one end into the end of the extension tube, and cap the other end with the cap you took off the bike in the first place. Made sure these are a good tight fit. Too loose and you'll have a vacuum leak.

7. Back at your Strom, cut your 3 feet of tubing into two one equal sections. Take one of them and insert the end over the brass nipple sticking out of the front throttle body (from which you previously took the cap). Sounds easy. It isn't. If you find yourself struggling to get your hands in there, and can't possibly imagine that this is the correct procedure, then you are doing it right. It sucks. Got it on? Good. Now, take the other end of the extension tube and figure out where you want it to sit on your bike. I found that I like the ends just in front of the battery with enough slack to work with. Cut the tube to fit. Now, take one of your new brass connectors and shove it in the end of the tube (getting the connector a little wet makes this a ton easier). Slip the cap on the end of the connector and VOILA! You are half done!

8. Now that you think you know what you are doing, the Strom will teach you some humility. Your objective is to repeat the process for the rear cylinder. It works exactly the same, except that the rear cylinder's brass nipple and end-cap are much harder to find and reach. Don't worry, they are there. It took a fair amount of crawling around on my back, looking up at the engine with a flashlight to find it. Once you find it you will discover that it is nearly impossible to reach. I ended up using a screwdriver to pry off the cap, and relied on the resilience of the vacuum tubing to push the extension onto the nipple. As with the front, if you find yourself thinking you can't possibly be doing it right because there is no way it should be this hard, that is your signal that you are doing fine. When it is all said and done, you will have your vacuum extensions sitting together, neatly accessible on your bike, ready to do the actual sync.

9. Reward yourself for getting this far with a brief ride around the block. The Strom has to be warm to do the next step.

10. Time to do the actual sync: Start by connecting your sync tool to the ends of the extensions you just installed. I use the "$4 ATF sync tool" popularized by the BMW people. It is nothing more than some clear tubing, wrapped around a yard stick and half filled with ATF. Very elegant.

11. Make sure the Strom is at full operating temperature. More importantly, make sure that the "fast idle" is off. Adjust your idle speed to 1200 RPM. The idle speed adjustment screw is on the left side of the bike. During this whole process, it is the one screw that is easy to reach.

12. Find the sync adjustment screw. It is located on the right side of the bike, on the front TB. The easiest way to find it is to look down in there while you move the throttle with your hand. The sync screw is part of the assembly on the front TB that moves with the throttle. It "points" down toward the ground (meaning the head of the screw is up, the thread end is down). If you find yourself thinking "that can't possibly be the right screw, since there is no way I can get a screwdriver on it", you have the right one.

13. I used a small Phillips head screwdriver bit to adjust mine. I could just reach in there with the bit and turn the screw. It is very tight. If you have a small, stubby screwdriver, you might try that also. Some folks have better luck using looong nose pliers. Make sure you do have this gap as pictured below, it's very important. The sync screw is located on the lower right side of the forward throttle body, on the linkage.

14. With your sync tool connected and your adjustment screw located, start the Strom. Be prepared to turn the engine off quickly, if the sync is way off the ATF can be drawn out of the tubing into the enigine. If yours is like mine, the sync will be a bit off: 12" of ATF or more. Blip the throttle a little to help the gauge settle down. Reach in with your adjustment screwdriver and try moving the adjustment screw. A little bit is all it takes. From here it is just an iterative process: Adjust a little, blip the throttle, check the gauge. Repeat until the two sides of the gauge are level (or at least within an half inch or so. You probably won't be able to get them absolutely exactly the same).

15. When you are done, take some fingernail polish and put a dab on the adjustment screw so it does not drift.

16. Put the body back together and enjoy your Strom!

Author: Jeff Miller Modified by JW.

Some notes from Dave, #1245

A. If removing the whole fairing, follow the procedure outlined elseware in this FAQ.

B. It is most helpful to do the tank lift in order to see/manipulate the brass nipples.

C. Attack both front and back nipples from the right side of the bike. I found that the back was actually easier than the front if manipulated from the right side.

D. I used a pair of forceps to attach the vacuum hose to the nipples. Even then it was a PAIN, but with the forceps I could lock them about 1/2" back from the end of the tubing, which made it easier to push (and wiggle) the tubing onto the nipples. I can't imagine even a child's hands fitting in there, to do this placement.

E. The sync screw is the lower spring loaded screw on the front throttle body. It's not difficult to see from the right side of the bike, but it's rather difficult to adjust. Mine was gunked up with white paint, which leads me to believe that my dealer never did this adjustment when I took it in for the 600 mile service. A 90 degree Phillips driver might be helpful to do the actual adjustment. I couldn't get my needlenose to move it!

Some notes from Yiannis

TBS CAN be performed without taking anything off, well almost, we only had to take the right black L-shaped cover off for better visibility (just one screw).

Actually, we did the TBS on my bike taking the whole fairing and dashboard off, however, having that experience, meaning we knew where those nipples are, we could attach the vacuum tubes and turn the adjustment screw with just taking out the small black plastic cover, all that on Tom's bike.

The trick is to get a really long set of pliers, we had some really long ones, which proved to be the most valuable tool I've seen so far. All you need to do, is just put those tubes just in place (I used my hand for the rear one, pliers for the front one) and then use the pliers to grab the tube and push it all the way onto the nipple. Of course, we used the pliers to take the caps off. Oh, if I remember correctly the caps were measured at 5/32 i.d. in case you want to buy the tubes in advance.

Turning the adjustment screw is really easy with the pliers, just grab it by the head and turn it, crashbars were in the way but not of a problem.

“Most of the stuff people worry about, ain't never gonna happen anyway.” 

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