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Author Topic: FI Code, -C28, troubleshooting assistance  (Read 2069 times)
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Heavy
***
12/24/05 1908 Hours
Posts: 111
'06 DL1000
Ontario, Canada
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« on: 11/14/09 1833 Hours »
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Hi All,

I recently had an FI fault with my 2006 DL1000.  I started to troubleshoot it and asked a few questions here:

http://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,8810.0.html

I got fed up/busy and left it alone for a few days but now I'm back at it and have a few questions for the masses.

Some background first:

2006 DL1000, 63,000 kms (40,000 miles) on the odometer, secondaries out since around 10,000 kms (6,000 miles), K&N air filter installed around 3,000 kms (1,800 miles).  I put Dale Walker Holeshot slip-ons and TFI box on it this spring, at about 50,000 kms (30,000 miles).  The bike has had one major service at a dealer, valve adjustment, coolant change and spark plugs.  It was done 2 years ago, around 27,000 kms (17,000 miles).  I live in a northern climate so it gets put away in the winter.  I do ride rain or shine so it has seen lots of wet weather.

So, about 1-1/2 weeks ago I am riding home.  Its cold and rainy.  I pull off the highway after a 2-1/2 hour ride and, as I stop at the bottom of the ramp, the red dashboard warning light comes on and the clock started alternating time/FI/time/FI.  I have about 2.5 kms (1.5 miles) to home and the bike runs perfectly for the rest of the trip.  I park the bike and, basically, forget about the fault.  Last Monday, I'm getting ready to go for a ride.  The bike starts fine, idles as normal and no warning light.  After it warms up a bit, the warning light and FI error re-appear.  I abort my ride and roll it back into the garage to start solving the problem.  Jumper wire to put it in dealer mode and all I get is C00, no errors.  Suit back up, get ready to go and, once again, as the bike warms the light comes on and the time/FI alternate.  This time I have my spare key so I leave it running, pop the seat and jumper for dealer mode again.  This time I am rewarded with a C28, meaning I have an STV (Secondary Throttle Valve) Actuator Circuit Malfunction.  I take off the plastics and gas tank and find the following:

I looked in the throttle bodies and the secondary shafts were turning with no apparent obstruction.

I have checked continuity between the red STVA lead wire and ground...open circuit, okay per manaul.

I have checked STVA resistance...6 ohms, okay per manual (spec is 4.8 - 7.2 ohms).

Poked around and found the wires from the main harness to the STVA were slightly abraded.  Have since taped them up.



After taping up the wires I put the airbox and gas tank back on so I could start it again.  Bike starts and idles fine, as usual.  Again, after a few minutes, the dash light and clock/FI begin again.  I shut it down and walked away in frustration/disgust.

Today, I went out to keep digging.  I rechecked the STV operation and found mine do not operate as per the manual when you first turn the key

Manual: half open - full close - full open - 75% open - half open (after 20 second delay).

Mine:    half open -                 full open - 75% open - half open (after 20 second delay).

I appear to be missing the "full close" part of the process.  The secondary throttle shafts seem to move in unison and with no jittering/binding that others have mentioned.  I'm about to go out and check the contacts at the ECM but I thought I'd throw this out to see if anyone had any ideas.



« Last Edit: 11/14/09 1840 Hours by Heavy » Logged

johnofchar
Former VSRI Administrator
Former Member
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10/19/03 1511 Hours
Posts: 12035

SV-Strom & K9 ABS Wee
Charleston SC USA
www Offline
« REPLY #1 on: 11/14/09 1941 Hours »
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DQ


Refer to reply #6 in other topic about STPS.
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“Most of the stuff people worry about, ain't never gonna happen anyway.” 

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Heavy
***
12/24/05 1908 Hours
Posts: 111
'06 DL1000
Ontario, Canada
Offline
« REPLY #2 on: 11/14/09 2027 Hours »
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Thanks for that John.  Its pretty evident that mine is not the same as what you posted.  Is there any difference between the model years?  Any suggestions on what to look for next?

http://s52.photobucket.com/albums/g36/jjchonga/Movies/?action=view&current=STPS.flv


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johnofchar
Former VSRI Administrator
Former Member
******
10/19/03 1511 Hours
Posts: 12035

SV-Strom & K9 ABS Wee
Charleston SC USA
www Offline
« REPLY #3 on: 11/14/09 2059 Hours »
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Same for all years. Check out that STPS.
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“Most of the stuff people worry about, ain't never gonna happen anyway.” 

  Get your flags
Heavy
***
12/24/05 1908 Hours
Posts: 111
'06 DL1000
Ontario, Canada
Offline
« REPLY #4 on: 11/30/09 1403 Hours »
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Hey John,  I got sidetracked for a while but I'm back looking at my bike.  Is it possible to remove the wiring connector for the STPS with the sensor still on the bike?  I can't see in there well enough to know how to release the plug for the harness.  I know its usually a "squeeze and tug" but I'm not getting any movement on the connector.  Any hints?
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johnofchar
Former VSRI Administrator
Former Member
******
10/19/03 1511 Hours
Posts: 12035

SV-Strom & K9 ABS Wee
Charleston SC USA
www Offline
« REPLY #5 on: 11/30/09 1505 Hours »
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It's pretty much like the other connectors. Best to have the airbox off for this check-out.
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“Most of the stuff people worry about, ain't never gonna happen anyway.” 

  Get your flags
Heavy
***
12/24/05 1908 Hours
Posts: 111
'06 DL1000
Ontario, Canada
Offline
« REPLY #6 on: 12/02/09 1203 Hours »
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I'm having trouble seeing where the little release is on the connector.  I thought, since you'd had yours so fully dismantled, you might know.  I know, just a shot in the dark but I can't see it myself.
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johnofchar
Former VSRI Administrator
Former Member
******
10/19/03 1511 Hours
Posts: 12035

SV-Strom & K9 ABS Wee
Charleston SC USA
www Offline
« REPLY #7 on: 12/02/09 2213 Hours »
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I only had that connector off once & that was a long time ago. There is a small square opening you should be able to see. Either push down this tab or pull up on the lever to disengage.
Logged

“Most of the stuff people worry about, ain't never gonna happen anyway.” 

  Get your flags
Heavy
***
12/24/05 1908 Hours
Posts: 111
'06 DL1000
Ontario, Canada
Offline
« REPLY #8 on: 04/12/10 1759 Hours »
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So, after all my screwing around, I finally solved my problem.  A friend loaned me the ECM from his crashed bike.  All is good.
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WeThereYet
**
03/26/06 0240 Hours
Posts: 85
06 1K Red
Victoria, B.C.
Offline
« REPLY #9 on: 04/13/10 1407 Hours »
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So you have a bad ECM?

At least you know now. Excellent.
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Heavy
***
12/24/05 1908 Hours
Posts: 111
'06 DL1000
Ontario, Canada
Offline
« REPLY #10 on: 04/13/10 2100 Hours »
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Ya, excellent to know what's wrong.  Not excellent to find out it lists at over US$1,000.
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johnofchar
Former VSRI Administrator
Former Member
******
10/19/03 1511 Hours
Posts: 12035

SV-Strom & K9 ABS Wee
Charleston SC USA
www Offline
« REPLY #11 on: 04/13/10 2221 Hours »
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http://motors.shop.ebay.com/__?_from=R40&_trksid=p3984.m39.l1313&_nkw=DL1000+ecu&_sacat=
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“Most of the stuff people worry about, ain't never gonna happen anyway.” 

  Get your flags
Heavy
***
12/24/05 1908 Hours
Posts: 111
'06 DL1000
Ontario, Canada
Offline
« REPLY #12 on: 05/17/10 1537 Hours »
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Thanks for the link John.  My friend, with the crashed bike, decided to part it out.  I took the ECM, and a few other bits off his hands.

My bike is running better than ever.
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