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Author Topic: V-strom 650 skid plates for sale  (Read 29539 times)
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narcosis junky
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03/20/10 0759 Hours
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« on: 03/20/10 0806 Hours »
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I updated this thread. go to this thread (   http://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,11937.0.html )


I make Skid plates for The Suzuki V-strom 650.



I sell the Skid Plate (mild steel) for $180 with hardware
I sell the Skid plate (stainless) for $240 with hardware (special order only)
I sell the skid plate (aluminum) for $240 with hardware (special order only)
I sell the mounting bracket for $40

Total $180 for steel (our most popular)


Shipping, I ship USPS and UPS.  You choose.
USPS:
West coast comes out to be about $20
East coast comes out to be about $30
Canada comes out to be   $70
Other countrys about $90
New Zealand $120

UPS prices vary.
International shipping is USPS only.

Custom Orders take up to a month.  that includes stainless, aluminum, and custom colors like silver. (black is the standard)

P/S The skid plate is designed to deflect rocks/gravel, small objects.  It's designed to protect your oil filter, oil cooler, exhaust.  It is not designed to be used as a belly ramp to go over logs and jumping buildings.  If you choose to do that, you are doing it at your own risk.  Yes the product is very strong, but it is only as strong as the tube guard that it is mounted to.  So I'm not liable if damage is done to your bike. You can jack your bike up off the ground with a floor jack using the skid plate.  Other customers have done that.  But remember, it's only as strong as your crash bars.  The rear is very strong.

Reasons for the design.

 I didn't like the after market ones because they are expensive and cheaply made.  I had an aluminum one that I paid $219. It had cut outs on the bottom for the exhaust.  So it didn't protect the exhaust. And first time off road,  The aluminum skid plate got all bent up.  So I decided on inventing and making my own.  I work for a fabrication shop. So I decided to get creative on my Solid works Program.

The things I wanted out of a skid plate:

To protect The exhaust.
To protect the Oil filter.
To protect the Oil cooler.
To be able to lift the whole bike from under the skid plate.
To be strong and tough.
To look good.
To adapt to both Givi and Motech Crash bars.
To be able to jack the bike up from under the skid plate.
And easy to install.

What I didn't want:

holes on the bottom where sticks could poke through.
a hole to drain the oil.  It doesn't work.  you end up making a mess.
A hole to change the filter.  That would take away the protection I tried to give the oil filter.
If you can get your hand in there, imagine what else will get in.


So this is what I came up with.



So I got to work on this design.  And here are a few pics of it on my bike.



Of course it took a few tries and a few designs to perfect it.  But I was Happy with the final product.






The difference between the bottom of my skid plate and it's competitors.

Our skid plate design:






The competition's skid plate.  To many openings and not enough protection.  In my opinion.
The competition is the silver one. The black one was my first design.  It has changed some.







Now that I had designed the skid plate.  I had to tackle the next problem.

The mounting bracket.  The one that came with my Motech aluminum skid plate was thin, cheap, and flimsy.  I kept bending it.
So I decided that I had to create a new one and much stronger.  The kind that a Duel Sport bike should have.  I believe if you are going to protect your investment (Motorcycle) then you have to do it right.

So this is what I drew up.



Here is a comparison of the Motech bracket and My bracket.
My bracket is 1/4" thick and made of steel.  Powder coated in black.






And of course, every one wants the hardware supplied with the Skid plate and bracket.
So, I put together a hardware kit.  Every thing you need to install the skid plate.



Now I ask that when you order, you specify the type of bolts you want under the skid plate.

Hex?  or pan head?





The install

Very important, You must lube the stainless bolts on the bottom.  I use mild lock tight.  you can also use anti seize, or oil.  You are bolting a stainless bolt into a stainless lock nut.  Both are stainless.  If you use excessive force, they will seize. If you use a impact they will seize. As long as you use lube, they will not seize.  If you choose to not use some kind of lube, and they seize up, I will not be liable.  So please use a lube.  the other fasteners don't matter.  But the two bolts on the bottom matter.  I go the extra mile to tig weld two stainless nylock nuts. To prevent seizing from rusting.  So use lube.  Please.



First you need to get your bike off of your kick stand.  Use a duel kick stand if you have one.  If you don't have a duel kick stand, then you will have to find a way to hold the bike up.  You can use tie downs.  The first bike I worked on I had to tie it to my garage ceiling trusses.  What ever will stop your bike from falling over.  Because you have to remove the side kick stand. Temporarily.

You will have to remove the bolt that holds your exhaust and the two bolts that hold your kick stand.



Then you need to install the bracket.



Then you put both U-bolts on the front of your crash bars.  I use a piece of green rubber with 4 holes.  You can use a piece of inner tube.
Anything works.  it's just to put a layer between the skid plate and the crash bar.  And it holds the U-bolts in position.  It's not mandatory to put something there.  It just helps to hold the U-bolts in position. And it dampened the the vibration.  I have HWY pegs attached to my skid plate.





Then I hold up the front of the skid plate and bolt the front on.  I use the second set of holes.  I bolt it on loosely.





Then I raise the rear up to the bracket and install the two bolts.  Please put some kind of lube on these bolts.  Once everything is screwed in, Tighten all the nuts and bolts.  And you are done. PS hand tighten these with a ratchet.  Don't over tighten them they will seize.  The two nuts on the bracket are stainless Lock nuts.  I do add mild lock tight on all my bolts.









Now here is more info on the product.

It is made of steel and powder coated black.
It is made of 11 gauge. (1/8" steel)

The bracket is 1/4" steel. Powder coated black.
The skid plate weights at 11 lbs.
The bracket weights at 2 lbs.

The bottom bolts are 3/8" bolts.
The front U-bolts are 1/4" 1/2" pipe
The two Kick stand bolts are M12 x 1.25 X 35
The exhaust bolt is M8 x 1.25 x 50

I take Paypal, money orders, and checks. I will do checks, but I will wait for them to clear. (I don't like checks) but will accept them.
I sell these for half of what you would pay in a retail store.

So I don't make much of a profit. The prices are what they are.

If you have questions, you can PM me or
E-mail me. I prefer e-mails.

Yann D.
[B]Yann_dex@msn.com[/B]
(541)912-1205

Oregon
97404

Please post pictures of your skid plate mounted if you can.  On this thread.
Or e-mail me pics if you can.  Thank you.

Pictures of skid plate on other V-strom 650















« Last Edit: 06/08/12 1727 Hours by narcosis junky » Logged

Craigster
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12/26/09 0344 Hours
Posts: 18
'07 DL650
Victoria, BC, Canada
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« REPLY #1 on: 03/20/10 2156 Hours »
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This is an excellent skid plate.  I have one on my '07ABS.  Very easy install, top quality materials.  The seller (mftr) is active on the stromtrooper board, and has sold many of these plates to members of that community.  I'm not associated in any way with the seller, only giving some credibility where it's due.  I found shipping costs to be very reasonable, and he's quick to reply to email.  If you've got questions, feel free to ask.

Craig.
« Last Edit: 03/20/10 2202 Hours by Craigster » Logged
scep
I'll get me coat...
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02/10/08 2218 Hours
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DL650K7AT
Ipswich, UK
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« REPLY #2 on: 03/21/10 0011 Hours »
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Looks spot on, the rear bracket is a quality touch.  Thumbs Up Pity I'm the wrong side of the sea Sad
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narcosis junky
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« REPLY #3 on: 03/21/10 0448 Hours »
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I have shipped one to UK already.  The buyer paid $82 for shipping.  It got there in 7 days.

yann
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scep
I'll get me coat...
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02/10/08 2218 Hours
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DL650K7AT
Ipswich, UK
www Offline
« REPLY #4 on: 03/21/10 0900 Hours »
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That'snot bad - but it'll be more like £90 if I get stung for VAT and duty, and my wife won't let me justify that at the moment Smiley
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narcosis junky
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« REPLY #5 on: 03/21/10 1520 Hours »
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Remember, I'm not really a business.  I do this for fun.  So what I have done for some customers,  Some from Canada, some from Budapest,  I sent it to them as a gift. No invoice, No receipts. I just put a letter inside that said "Enjoy the gift".  This way they avoid the taxes and other fees.  I'm easy to work with.  And as far as your wife, you are just going to have to buy her something nice first.  then you get your self something like a skid plate.  trust me, I have a wife, you just have to know how to play both sides of the field.  Any ways, thanks for the interest.  I'm glad to see people like my design.

yann
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scep
I'll get me coat...
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02/10/08 2218 Hours
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DL650K7AT
Ipswich, UK
www Offline
« REPLY #6 on: 03/21/10 1549 Hours »
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We've not had a bathroom for five weeks (I told her it would be finished in four days  :Smiley), it'll take more than buying her something nice Cheesy.

When I get the cash together you'll be top of the list, cheers (though of course HM Customs and Excise have had much longer to practice ripping us off than some countries and they don't miss a trick: if they decide that your gift is worth more than £36, they'll still slap those duties on  Angry )
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narcosis junky
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« REPLY #7 on: 03/21/10 1600 Hours »
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One of my customers in Ukraine , I put an invoice of $29.99 in the box.  He said it worked.  I'm willing to try anything to make you guys happy.  I don't favor or support the tax crap.  We don't benefit from it.  At least not here in the US.  taxes here are just a scam.  And you better get to work on that bathroom.  Get off the computer and get to work.  Make her happy and she will make you happy.  (theoretically)

yann
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strombok
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03/14/09 1952 Hours
Posts: 19
07 grey Wee
Sudbury, uk
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« REPLY #8 on: 03/23/10 0722 Hours »
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Whats the difference between your skid plate and the standard suzuki one?The reason I ask is
because I can get Suzuki plate for 155 GBP, yours works out at 198 GBP(shipping included).
Is yours more solid,do the materials used in yours offer more protection?
I don't mind paying for better quality.

Les.
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narcosis junky
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« REPLY #9 on: 03/23/10 0906 Hours »
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My skid plate gives you a solid bottom.  The Suzuki has cut outs for the exhaust to stick through the skid plate. (Suzuki doesn't protect your exhaust).
My skid plate is 1/8"  (11 gauge) steel.  And powder coated.
My skid plate is supported by a bracket that is 1/4" thick.
I use 3/8" stainless bolts to bolt the bottom.
My skid plate comes up higher on the sides and gives you better protection for the oil cooler.
My design is easier to take off and put back on for oil and oil filter changes.

Look at the pictures.

http://stromtrooper.com/showthread.php?t=48308

yann D.
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strombok
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03/14/09 1952 Hours
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07 grey Wee
Sudbury, uk
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« REPLY #10 on: 03/23/10 1103 Hours »
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Thanks for the info yann,
Just wish the exchange rate would tip back in our favour Grin.
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smurph
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05/06/09 0143 Hours
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« REPLY #11 on: 04/01/10 0638 Hours »
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As for shipping to Canada, you shouldn't have to worry about any extra taxes etc. as it's manufactured in the USA and in accordance with the FT act it shouldn't be subject to any additional monies. Anyway... it arrive in A1 condition and I didn't pay anything extra. Just signed and excitedly went home to install it. I have some pictures up on another thread here http://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,12128.msg128871.html#msg128871
I wound up having to do some cutting to the back of the plate to make it work with my center stand. I'm still waiting for someone to identify which center stand it is. Then whoever has that particular stand will know they'll have to cut off another 1 - 1 1/4" off the rear of the skid plate. Otherwise it will not fit.


you can see here where it needed to be 'altered'.....


All in all a great product. I'd order it again even if I had to do the cutting again. Still worth every penny. And STRONG construction.

Thanks again Yann

Smurph
« Last Edit: 04/01/10 1645 Hours by smurph » Logged
RichlandRick
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06/12/05 2310 Hours
Posts: 749
DL650
Richland Washington
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« REPLY #12 on: 04/04/10 1749 Hours »
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Impressive!  Nicely done.
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narcosis junky
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03/20/10 0759 Hours
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« REPLY #13 on: 04/10/10 0203 Hours »
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Now I want to see pictures.  Pictures and more pictures.

Looks like about a week and I will have a bunch of DL650/1000 model skid plates.
That's right.  The new model will fit both the Wee and the Vee. (DL650and the DL1000).



It will fit the givi crash bars, the SW Motech crash bars, the New Sw Motech crash bars.  And other models.

As far as center stands, it will fit all center stands. SW motech center stands, OEM centerstand, and so on.

I tried to make the new skid plate as Universal as possible.

Look at it this way, if you have a 650 and you want to upgrade to a 1000 you can take it off and transfer it  to your new ride.

Thanks for everyone for their support on this.  i couldn't of done it with out you.

yann

PS Now I need to come up with a cool name for it.  Suggestions welcomed.
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Hutchie
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02/14/10 1509 Hours
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« REPLY #14 on: 04/21/10 2346 Hours »
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I was probably the guy from the UK mentioned above.

Mine had no customs issues at all, and the delivery was ridiculously quick.

I had a right good scour for what appeared to be the most robust bash plate, and it came down to this and the B&B australian one.
I haven't seen the australian one in the flesh, but I have narcosis's fitted on my weestrom, and it is one awesome bit of gear. Solid and a pishcase to fit. Bike looks great with it on, and it is great as a catchtray when you drop washers etc Smiley

I've used mine in anger, smacked it off quite a few things already, and it has just laughed at my feeble efforts so far. It'll outlast me Smiley

In the first pic, you can see just how well it covers all the sticky out bits of the front of the bike, and the underneath is totally covered.
All I need now is a sense of balance and some better tyres (tires)










Plenty more pics at http://share.ovi.com/media/StewartHutcheon.mymedia/StewartHutcheon.10051
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narcosis junky
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« REPLY #15 on: 05/11/10 1950 Hours »
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Here are a few pics of skid plate on customers V-stroms.
Some are DL 650 and others DL 1000.
They are mounted on all different kinds of crash bars.  Thanks to those of you that have sent me some pictures.  Please continue.


























Again, thanks to all of you that have sent me pictures.:thumbup:


Yann
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narcosis junky
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« REPLY #16 on: 05/23/10 0825 Hours »
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I have had some interest in the radiator guard and the oil cooler.  I'm working on having some made at work.  I should be able to sell them with in the month or so.








Thank you.

yann
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Gramps
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08/20/06 0125 Hours
Posts: 192
K7 DL650A
Richmond, Va
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« REPLY #17 on: 05/23/10 1804 Hours »
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I like your skid plate, but I'm wondering why you went with the rear bracket bolts on the bottom?  It would seem that the issues people have with those bolt heads grabbing and tweaking the brackets on other skid plates would be a similar problem on your plate.  Why not bolt the plate to the bracket in from the side, or on the diagonals?
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narcosis junky
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« REPLY #18 on: 05/24/10 0425 Hours »
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I did the design this way so that the skid plate can be adjusted forward and backward.  you have to remember that this is the only skid plate on the market that will fit the 650 and the 1000.  It will fit just about any crash bars and any duel center stands.  In order to do that, the slot had to be on the bottom.  You would have to be really hard on the bike in order to shear the bolts.  As far as  bending the bracket, I doubt that's possible.   I made the bracket out of 1/4" material for that reason.  The bracket isn't going anywhere.  It's tough and I built it that way.  I have though about all different kind of ways to mount it, even on the side.  And it's not realistic if I want it to be a universal skid plate.  I like the idea that someone that buys my skid plate for their 650 can eventually move it to their 1000 if they want to upgrade their motorcycle.  It's transferable.

Yann
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narcosis junky
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« REPLY #19 on: 06/04/10 0851 Hours »
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I have had some interest in the radiator guard and the oil cooler.  I'm working on having some made at work.  I should be able to sell them with in the month or so.








Thank you.

yann
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calltrex
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07/12/10 0339 Hours
Posts: 109

2010 650, ABS, Tour
Saskatchewan, Canada
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« REPLY #20 on: 07/14/10 1445 Hours »
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nice skidplate

ill probably get that and the rad gaurd off ya soon

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2010 V-Strom 650 with ABS and Tour Package
narcosis junky
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03/20/10 0759 Hours
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« REPLY #21 on: 07/14/10 1459 Hours »
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RADIATOR GUARD AND LIFT KIT FOR THE DL650

I have the radiator guards and lift kits on hand.

Both are stainless.

The Radiator guard is grade 8 mirror stainless.  16 gauge.  Very expansive stuff.  You don't have to worry about nasty dings that you would get on a aluminum radiator guard.  And it will not rust.

The lift is made of 1/4 inch stainless. Will not rust and stronger and thicker than stock.  And gives you around 1" lift.
That's for taller people.  6' and up.

LIFT KIT



RADIATOR GUARD














The radiator guards are $100
The lift kits are $50

Send me a e-mail at yann_dex@msn.com or Enduro.guardian@gmail.com

Give me your zip code so I can figure out the shipping.  And I will send you a paypal invoice.

yann D.
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scrape9
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08/18/10 0409 Hours
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« REPLY #22 on: 08/18/10 0453 Hours »
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So,

I just received and installed the Radiator Guard and Skid plate from Yann, and thought I would post the results of my experience for others - Good or bad.

First - the good.  I emailed Yann at 8:00pm on a Sunday night and said I needed a skid plate for a last minute trip.  By 11:00pm I had an accurate shipping quote with approximate delivery times.   Because I don't live in a major centre, I couldn't get the fastest shipping option, which is what I had requested and paid for.  Yann phoned me the next morning and gave me the details, I went with a slower option and decided to order the Radiator Guard as well.  He shipped it with the skid plate before I had even paid the balance.  By 2:00pm that day (within 18 hrs of the first email), I had a tracking number from USPS.

USPS gooned it and I didn't get the skid plate in time, but it was waiting for me when I got back.  Properly packaged and undamaged in shipping.  First impressions - it's Holy crap strong, and very heavy.  Totally overbuilt, but some people will like that.  The total weight is 13 lbs with the bracket, and it doesn't sound like much but if you picture holding a 10 lb and a 2.5 lb dumbell, it's a lot.  Craftsmanship is top notch.  Well machined, no sharp edges, well formed and nicely finished.  Same for the bracket.  Both are very nice.  Fit was excellent, with absolutely no issues.  Very simple to install, bolted right up.  Took me 20 minutes once I had opened everything up and laid out the tools.

You will damage your bike before you exceed the strength of the skid plate.  The weakest point is the mount on the crash bar.  If the front of the skid plate was mounted to the frame, I would put money on damaging the frame prior to buckling the plate or bracket.  I have been riding for 30 years, and have had aftermarket skid plates for 4X4 trucks that were not as beefy.

The Rad guard is exactly as depicted with a very nice polish finish, and really sharp detailing.  Took less than 5 minutes to slip into place.

The not so good - You lose about 1 - 1.5 inches of ground clearance, which is a lot on a bike with already limited clearance.  In fairness, there is only about 1/4" between the bottom of the pipe and the top of the skid plate, so there is not much room to play with and I think pretty much every skid plate would have the same issue.  I can't say for sure, but I think the bolts included are lower grade than the OEM parts.  Picky, I know, but I thought I would put it out there.  I will dig out my book and try and confirm.  I paid for the hardware upgrade, which changes the front mount from a u-bolt with nuts facing forward on the outside of the plate, to small blocks with fillister head cap screws on the outside and the blocks behind the crash bar inside the plate.  In retrospect, I will change over and install the u-bolts.  The way the metal blocks sit, there is a chance that with a big hit you could flex the crash bar enough to allow the metal block to contact the front of the head just next to the pipe.  A long shot for sure, but I would feel safer with the extra space the u-bolts provide.

The rad guard - where the holes are stamped the edges are very nicely de-burred, but not so much where the logos have been cut.  Several small burrs and sharp edges, which would make it very difficult to polish with a cloth.  It is EXACTLY what is pictured, but after having seen it on the bike, I actually like the first version that Yann has pictured, the one with just holes and no logo.  This one is a bit blinged up for me.  I may pull it off the bike and spray it flat black.

Overall - first rate.  The guy was great to deal with and was super prompt.  Fit and finish of just about everything was awesome with only minor nit picky points to talk about.  The skidplate is "bitchin" strong and the only bad point is that it's heavy.  I've been looking for a skid plate for months and can't find anything even close price wise.  I think it's an awesome deal, and wouldn't hesitate to buy stuff from him again.  If I had to do it again, I thin I would pony up the extra cash and go with the aluminum in order to save weight.  I will try and post pics soonest.
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elroy
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04/09/09 1837 Hours
Posts: 16
DL650K5
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« REPLY #23 on: 08/22/10 0349 Hours »
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Hey Yann,

I bought one of your skid plates, as I really enjoy it. The problem is that my engine guards don't match up with the skid plate. My cross bar is way too high to attach to the front of the skid plate. I have to anchor two tubes (from the engine guard) to the right and left corner (near the bottom of the skid plate), but it's not close to lining up with the skid plate. Any suggestion? Any brand that might work?

Thanks

James

Thanks
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BillZ
Lean into it...
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03/04/11 1730 Hours
Posts: 51

DL650AL1 White
Crab Orchard, KY, USA
www Offline
« REPLY #24 on: 03/09/11 1642 Hours »
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This looks real nice.  I'll be thinking about your stuff as I plan my accessories.
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"The road goes ever on and on, down from the door where it began.
Now far ahead the road has gone and I must follow if I can..."
                                                                    J.R.R. Tolkien
DL650AL1
LIMNCS #51
narcosis junky
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03/20/10 0759 Hours
Posts: 56
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« REPLY #25 on: 04/22/11 1931 Hours »
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ENDURO GUARDIAN Products


HWY PEGS FOR THE V-STROM AND OTHER BIKES

Cost is $100



Here is the long awaited HWY pegs that every one has been E-mailing me about and asking for.
I have started to get all the parts from my work.  I'm assembling them as we speak.

They are made of steel mostly.  The joint section is stainless.   The pegs have a 3/8" PAD to absorb some of the vibrations.  The HWY pegs are powder coated black.(same as the skid plates)

All hardware for the install is included. Stainless. (u-bolts are galvanized)

If you own one of the ENDURO GUARDIAN skid plates, the holes are already there for the HWY peg install.

If you have another brand skid plate, you may be able to drill 4 holes and mount my HWY pegs.  Very easy install.

They are designed to retract when you go off road or the bike goes down.



The center section is short so that you don't have anything sticking out to catch the ground when the bike goes down.
To compensate for that, the pegs had to be longer in order to be in the right place for comfort.

I have had mine for over a year, and wouldn't give them up for anything.
On long rides, I switch my legs back and fourth between the center pegs and the HWY pegs.

Here are more pictures

Black is the HWY pegs color.  the ones in the pictures, have a custom color. They are mine.









This is the ones for sale and color:



Here are pictures showing the leg positions.





Thank you for your patience.

Yann D.

ENDURO GUARDIAN PRODUCTS

yann_dex@msn.com

enduro.guardian@gmail.com

(541)912-1205
« Last Edit: 06/07/11 0414 Hours by narcosis junky » Logged
snakyjake
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07/29/09 2241 Hours
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« REPLY #26 on: 06/03/11 2308 Hours »
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For the skid plate:

What are the different weights of mild steel, stainless, aluminum?

Does the "new" design still use rubber tire inner-tube for the plate attachment to the engine guard?  Maybe using rubber grommets instead?  Hopefully something like SW-Motech's, as I don't want to see long bolts protruding and inner-tube hanging out.

Some photos show 4 bolts attaching to the engine guard, and some show only 2 bolts...which is it?

How much hassle is it to remove/install whenever I need to change the oil filter?

At low speeds (off-road), any issues with decreased airflow and higher temperatures?

Thanks,
Jake
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narcosis junky
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03/20/10 0759 Hours
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« REPLY #27 on: 06/06/11 0351 Hours »
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For the skid plate:

What are the different weights of mild steel, stainless, aluminum?

Does the "new" design still use rubber tire inner-tube for the plate attachment to the engine guard?  Maybe using rubber grommets instead?  Hopefully something like SW-Motech's, as I don't want to see long bolts protruding and inner-tube hanging out.

Some photos show 4 bolts attaching to the engine guard, and some show only 2 bolts...which is it?

How much hassle is it to remove/install whenever I need to change the oil filter?

At low speeds (off-road), any issues with decreased airflow and higher temperatures?

Thanks,
Jake




Mild is 11.5 lbs.
stainless 12 lbs.
aluminum 6 lbs.

I actually don't provide a piece of inner tube.  I just recommend that people do put a piece there. It can be very small, it doesn't have to stick out and it's not necessary to have one.  As far as motech rubber grommets, I had one of their skid plates and that's the first thing that fell apart.  I don't like them.  Over all I think (personal opinion) they are a bad idea and design.
You don't have to put anything thing between the skid plate and the crash bars.


As far as bolts, I'm not sure what you are talking about.  Their is two U-bolts on the front and two bolts in the rear.  One on each sides now.  No more bolts on the bottom.
So you would see 4 nylock nuts on the front.  Now if you are using the hardware upgrade, then you would actually be screwing in 4 pan head bolts into two machined blocks.
It give you a cleaner look on the front.

Easy to install and remove.
Remove the two rear bolts.  loosen the front 4 nuts and the skid plate will swing down to the ground.  Remove the 4 nuts and pop the skid plate off the two U-bolts.  now you can do what ever you want under the bike.  When done, hook the front of the skid plate back to the U-bolts, install the 4 nuts.  Don't tighten them yet.  swing the rear up and put the two rear bolts in and now tighten every thing down and you are done.  Once you have done it once or twice, it becomes really easy.

No issues with decreased speeds or airflow at all.  Non issue.


Here are pics of the new design.







Let me know if you have anymore questions.

thank you.

Yann D.
ENDURO GUARDIAN Products.
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snakyjake
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07/29/09 2241 Hours
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« REPLY #28 on: 06/07/11 0323 Hours »
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What's an easy way (besides price) to decide between mild steel, steel, stainless, and aluminum?
I don't fully understand the benefits and disadvantages of the choices.
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narcosis junky
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« REPLY #29 on: 06/07/11 0424 Hours »
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That's easy.

Stainless requires no maintenance. And it will outlast the bike. Will never rust.

Aluminum is half the weight of the others. Will never rust. It's 3/16 material. It's thicker to make up for the softer material.

Steel is the cheapest and very strong. I recommend that when you do your oil changes, you inspect it for chips in the powder coat and touch it up with spray can to avoid it rusting on you.

That's about it.

If you have any more questions, let me know.

Yank
ENDURO GUARDIAN Products.
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