Shindengen MOSFET FH012AA regulator/rectifier

[greywolf]

The Shindengen MOSFET FH012AA has been superceded by the Shindengen MOSFET FH020AA since this was written. More importantly, To prevent stator burnout, a better option is the Shindengen SH775 series regulator/rectifier or other brand of series R/R. I'm sorry I gave wrong information about a MOSFET R/R being easier on the stator or using less power. Please ignore any such claims in the following posts. I was just plain wrong. It's still a shunt type regulator although a more precise one.

I just installed a Shindengen MOSFET FH012AA regulator/rectifier on my bike. It shows much better voltage at idle and low rpms and a little better at higher rpms with heated gear than the stock R/R. When not under heavy load, the thing holds within 0.1V of 14V at all times. It is amazingly steady. It has Eastern Beaver support too. http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/R_R_Connectors/r_r_connectors.html

It even fits where the stock R/R does on my 2007 DL650 with ABS. I got mine at http://roadstercycle.com/Universal%20Mosfet%20FH012AA%20charging%20system%20upgrade.htm but it is often available on Ebay for much less.

[johnofchar]

Reason for change?

Did the kit from roadstercycle have everything you needed?

And you know you can't get away without some details on your install!  

[greywolf]

Reason for change?

Did the kit from roadstercycle have everything you needed?

And you know you can't get away without some details on your install!  

I'm always looking for a better output for heated gear and I read that MOSFET R/Rs are more efficient and just do a better job. Also, I like working on the bike and it was something I could do that could be an improvement. The kit had the R/R connectors but not the connectors to match the bikes which are available from Eastern Beaver. I just soldered longer 10ga wires to the 3 stator wires and bypassed the stock connector. I did use the stock connector for the hot and ground to the R/R by soldering the two stock B/R wires to the red wire and the two stock B/W wires to the black wire provided. Getting at the connectors required lifting the air box. The contents of the kit are as pictured.

[johnofchar]

Sounds & looks good. I may have to try it on the vee where it will all be hidden if there is enough room under that left rear cowl.

I'l do the same with the soldered wires & do away with the non-waterproof connectors.

[Donunder]

John have you done the Mosfet instal yet?

I have an almost brand new OEM R/R and stator in place now but I'm doing two longish trips in November and March, the beginning and the end of our summer months. Following my stator failure in March this year, I'm not totally confident of doing a couple of 5000 klm trips even with the new parts (and a new battery) so I'm keen to see if someone (ie: you) has put a Mosfet R/R into a Vee, and whether it fitted under the cowl OK.

With only 4000 klms on the new stator, is it worth replacing it with a stronger after-market one at the same time, or do you think the Mosfet R/R will give the existing Suzuki one an easier life with good reliability?

[johnofchar]

John have you done the Mosfet instal yet?

No, I haven't touched either bike since I broke my ankle last May, except for battery tender swap.

If all your charge circuit connections are in good shape & your not putting large extra loads on the alternator you should be good.

I don't believe there are any good aftermarket stators. The new reg could help, but not sure.

[Donunder]

Thanks John. Sorry to hear about your ankle. Hope it's settled down.
The only extra electrical stuff I'm running is a Zumo, brake hi-liters and a Stebel horn, so not too much to worry about there.
I've also tended to stick with the OEM appoach regarding stators but I'm keen to explore further the Mosfet reg. I notice Greywolf has one on his 650 but I was hoping someone had tried one on a 1000.
I think a voltmeter will be going on too so as to have some early warning if things start going awry.

[greywolf]

The interesting thing about the stock SCR R/R is it works the hardest with no additional accessory load. Excess power goes into heating up the R/R.

[greywolf]

More people trying the conversion have indicated the following. The MOSFET R/R is a direct bolt on for 2007 and earlier DL650s. It's hole pattern is about 1/2" narrower than the bracket on 2008 and later DL650s. I'm pretty sure the earlier bracket is a direct bolt on replacement for the later one but nobody has tried it yet, using one bolt to mount the R/R instead.  32831-27G10 is the part number for the older bracket and is a little over $10. A DL1000 owner has written the MOSFET r/r is a direct bolt on for the bike frame. Just take off the old bracket and use the holes for the bracket mount to install the r/r.

[austin44]

On my K2 Vee, the 2 bolt bracket needed to be flipped 180° to move the MOSFET R/R rearward so
the lower socket housing clears, mounted in the same position.  It's closer to the side panel, but it
runs so cool there's no problem.  Used the OEM bolts for mounting it all.

[kswaby10]

It looks like it runs good.


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[HappyPuppy]

I have been reading  a bit about the regulator/rectifier issues. Some are even replacing the on nearly new bikes. Is this swap recommended only for those with a lot of electrical farkles or everyone?
I have been stranded on a 2008 FJR due to a wiring harness failure, and that was enough for myself.

[PeterW]

The stock voltage reg. is an old design, it runs hot, it puts extra load on the windings in the stator and possibly extra mechanical stresses as well. (Shorting the windings, which is what the stock VR does will cause mechanical stress - which MAY end up in the insulation wearing through and a stator failure).

On DL's it's not a high failure rate item - but - it's almost certainly going to be more reliable than the stocker.

Certainly if you run lots of farkles it'll give you more current at low rpm and may avoid flattening the battery.

(Your call )
Pete

[greywolf]

And if you don't run any extra electrical goodies, the stock R/R runs at its hottest. That is, unless you arrange to turn your headlights off for some reason. That will really turn excess electricity into maximum heat. A MOSFET R/R never gets more than warm to the touch. See http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-triple-forum/104504-charging-system-diagnostics-rectifier-regulator-upgrade.html for more info.

[richw]

Postulate

If stock dissipates energy as heat where the mosfet controls output like a filter is it possible that there might be a tiny increase in gas mileage ?

If it does control voltage more accurately you could also expect longer battery life from not being cooked

[greywolf]

I have gotten my best fuel economy since doing the conversion. I hadn't really thought about that. We'll see about the battery. One thing I noticed is a difference when hooking up a battery tender. With the SCR R/R, it took 15 to 30 minutes to go from charge to maintain mode when connecting the tender. With the MOSFET R/R, maintain mode began almost immediately.

[PeterW]

The increase in fuel economy is more likely to be from higher battery voltage (better spark etc).

That said, the electrical system probably sucks around 2HP to deliver what it provides normally and possibly half that with the MOSFET reg, so there's some direct power saving as well.

Pete

[Leroy]

The recent regulator / rectifier recall prompted me to move the MOSFET R/R to the head of the farkle queue.  I figured why replace the stock unit in my DL1000K8 with another fundamentally flawed stock unit and drive around with a false sense of security?

Here's the stock unit out of the bike -



Here's the replacement in the bike -



And here's the output voltage at idle -



It wasn't a "drop-in," but it wasn't that tough.  Here's a link to the entire set of pics, with narrative -

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/lynnlswearingen/sets/72157626287318938/with/5534844535/

[Leroy]

I remounted the regulator / rectifier to take advantage of the factory isolator bushings and sleeves, which required fabricating a replacement for the original mounting bracket.  Here's the R/R unit back on the bike with the new mount -



and here's the link to the updated Flickr set which now includes some fabrication details -

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lynnlswearingen/sets/72157626287318938/with/5537565781/

Sorry to beat this topic to death, but I wasn't happy with my original mounting approach and I didn't want to have anyone emulate something that may work less well than the original factory shock isolation.

[johnofchar]

I need to install one on my vee. When you sending me a bracket? 

[Donunder]

Having experienced electrical problems last year and accepting Greywolf's endorsement of the Shindengen mosfet R/R I decided to give it a try. The unit arrived promptly from Roadstercycle and guided by Leroy's descriptive guide to his instal, together with his terrific pics, the old R/R was quickly removed and the mosfet went in.

A new backing plate was fabricated so that the OEM grommets were retained and the unit moved a few degrees clockwise, as well as slightly back and slightly up to clear the mounting bracket for the side cover. In other words I simply followed Leroy's latest instructions to the letter. It's always good when some capable and inventive person does all the pioneering work and then has the generosity to post his findings so that others can achieve the same results!  

I'd post some pics of my own but really if you're considering this modification, have a look at Leroy's Flickr photos and all will be revealed.

I haven't noticed any real difference yet in running or fuel economy but it's a nice feeling to know that the electrical system has been improved significantly and that the dreaded electrical gremlins will hopefully be held at bay on my next long ride.

[dgk234]

Does anyone know how long the wires are from the R/R to the stator on a '06 650?  I want to order new wires from EasternBeaver and I would like to tell Jim the length so he put all the fittings on.

Thanks,

[greywolf]

The connector from the stator wiring harness that connects to the R/R harness  is very close to the R/R. Are you planning on using the stock connector? Take off the boomerang shaped piece under the tank and you can probably see the connector on the end of the R/R harness. The MOSFET has wires coming out of the bottom instead of the top so would need to be a bit longer. My preference is to run new 12ga or even 10ga wires from the MOSFET to the wires from the stator nearer the stator for the lowest loss. Jim can provide wire to wire connectors if you go that route.

[dgk234]

Thanks Greywolf.  I assumed there was a connector near the stator, so I was thinking that the new connector would go there.  I will order the wires and connector from Jim and solder the connectors myself near the stator using your suggestion of running the thicker wires close to the stator.  Thanks for the quick reply.

[dgk234]

Ok, I installed the MOSFET and everything went well.  Now my Signal Dynamics Voltage Indicator is flashing green every now and then when I am riding and steady green the rest of the time.  Flashing green indicates the voltage is 15.2 or higher.  Steady green is 12.9 to 15.1.  Is this a problem?  Can the voltage get too high?  Or is this how it should run and my old R/R was a piece of doo doo?

Thanks

[greywolf]

Put a hand held voltmeter on the battery and check the voltage at various rpms, comparing the result with the Signal Dynamics voltage indicator. The voltage should not exceed 15V.

[gumbotz]

 Has anyone done this on an 08 yet.
Wondering on mounting options and getting the air box off to get to the wires ?
 

[greywolf]

The '08 and later Wees  have a different mounting bracket from the '07. One option is to buy an '07 bracket, part #32831-27G10  for about $11. People have had success just using one bolt on the '08 bracket. http://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,7566.0.html will walk you through getting to the airbox.  The rear airbox connection to throttle bodies is easy to get to and handle. A tip for the front I haven't tried yet is to remove the air filter and squeeze the intake horn where it joins the airbox to take the box off and leave the horn on the throttle body. Use a hair dryer to warm the horn if it is stiff. The tip writer says it's easier to re-assemble that way. There are a number of connections to the box that can be photographed and tagged to aid in replacement. Electrical connectors have locking tabs that need to be squeezed to release the connectors.

It is possible to do the job without removing the airbox. If you can get at the connectors with long nose pliers to release them or cut and tape the wires near the old R/R, you can bypass them and connect the three stator wires by cutting and splicing in a more accessible place. The red and black power wires can be connected directly to the battery using a heavy duty 30A fuse holder on the red wire near the battery.

[weeriderkeith]

i need help im trying to figure out where i can get a good stator that dont cost me $317 any ideas i check a cpl places and no luck

[weeriderkeith]

sorry i need a stator for an 2008 weestrom any suggestions?