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Author Topic: DL1000 Wheel Spacer Exchange Program ?  (Read 24976 times)
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Stormin norman
Guest
« REPLY #60 on: 08/11/08 1906 Hours »
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I need to get in your exchange progarm for the rear wheel spacers.  My 06 DL 1000 has the problems.  How do I get a an order placed?Huh?

Stormin Norman
214-505-6557
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sailorw2002
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08/07/08 0025 Hours
Posts: 5

07 DL 1000
Penticton
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« REPLY #61 on: 08/12/08 0053 Hours »
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My 2007 DL1000 has 29,000 KMs and chain shot just bought new chain and sprockets.
now I know why chain always road to right side of sprocket...I will dust off paypall and get Rick some cash asap for a set.
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sailorw2002
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08/07/08 0025 Hours
Posts: 5

07 DL 1000
Penticton
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« REPLY #62 on: 08/12/08 0636 Hours »
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What about the rear brake, if are moving the hub 2Mm to the right...how does the caliper adjust?? I look forward to your advice.. ps on a 07 dl 1000
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Preload
*****
04/30/05 0723 Hours
Posts: 2822

DL650K5 Poverty model
North East UK
www Offline
« REPLY #63 on: 08/12/08 1055 Hours »
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Rear brake is on a sliding caliper, so self adjusting.
As you are moving the wheel to the right, the "fixed pad" on the left is unaffected, the pad on the right self adjusts both pads due to the piston being allowed to go in as well as out of the caliper through hydraulic/mechanical force.
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Lessons learned; When there's only two left, wait till you receive yours before letting a buddy in on the deal ; )
I'd normally be in the garage around now.
sailorw2002
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08/07/08 0025 Hours
Posts: 5

07 DL 1000
Penticton
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« REPLY #64 on: 08/12/08 1612 Hours »
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Thanks for the caliper info which makes sense,
but what about the clearance between the brake disc and the caliper support,
aren't they going to rub?
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Talth
*
10/18/03 2111 Hours
Posts: 7
Wisconsin USA
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« REPLY #65 on: 08/12/08 1701 Hours »
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The effect of the spacer swap is to move the sprocket hub closer to the wheel hub. The wheel isn't moved at all. So there is no change in it's position relative to the brake.

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Steve H.
'02 DL1000 V-Strom #00091 "resurrected"
YNOT
Guest
« REPLY #66 on: 08/24/08 1658 Hours »
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I have a DL1000K5 and would like to improve the shifting (reduce clunk) is there anyone out there that upgrading the spacer DIDN'T help the shifting?

Thanks for input!
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Peter
Candyman
******
10/12/03 1453 Hours
Posts: 5688

DL1000K2 (sold)
Singapore
www Offline
« REPLY #67 on: 09/27/08 0553 Hours »
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So exchanging the spacers is the only thing your did?
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Peter
PEOPLE WHO HAVE VISIONS SHOULD GO TO SEE THEIR DOCTOR
dclarky2
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12/20/08 0526 Hours
Posts: 1
DL 1000 K8
Vancouver, WA
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« REPLY #68 on: 01/07/09 0552 Hours »
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Just bought a new 08 DL1000, and I am wondering if Suzuki fixed this problem or not.  Apologies if this question is answered elsewhere (and can you direct me to it).  If not, I will check alignment when I pick the bike up and hopefully do the swap with Rick if he still is doing this.
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Urvile
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08/08/06 1915 Hours
Posts: 36
Placerville, CA
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« REPLY #69 on: 02/06/09 0405 Hours »
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whats with the sprocket being machined?  I am reading this thread but does not know where it begins.  Do you need to get sprocket machined before putting on new spacers
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degofast™
Lethal by NOS™
**
09/14/08 2206 Hours
Posts: 58

Vee K7
East Peoria, Illinois
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« REPLY #70 on: 03/05/09 0158 Hours »
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Rick, As to my understanding. The spacer will center the chain to the spocket. The only spacers that need replaced are the LH outer and LH inner? (Shouldn't this be the LH inner not RH outer?) While having it apart (18,400 miles) replace rubber cushions,bearings and dust seals.I still have the original chain and sprockets so I will be changing those also. The sprocket hub may have a ridge  on it by my understanding and this needs to be machined . Is this nessesary? How does the exchange work .Do I need to send mine first or can I wait till mine show up?
                              Thank you ,
                                       J.R.
« Last Edit: 03/05/09 0213 Hours by degofast™ » Logged
degofast™
Lethal by NOS™
**
09/14/08 2206 Hours
Posts: 58

Vee K7
East Peoria, Illinois
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« REPLY #71 on: 03/06/09 1227 Hours »
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Yes he still doing it ... You must email him,just look under his profile for his email.
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Columbo
***
05/22/04 2228 Hours
Posts: 277
'04 DL1000
So. California
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« REPLY #72 on: 03/18/09 0046 Hours »
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I took the rear tire off today to have it rebalanced.  I've got spacers on order and just waiting for them to show up now.  I've got around 13,000 relatively easy miles on the bike. When I removed the rear wheel, the sprocket carrier nearly fell out. There isn't any rubber crud/powder in the cush drive housing and the rubbers look good! I did notice that one sat a bit higher than the other because the "tit" part apparently wasn't seated properly. I don't think it wiggled its way out. I read a post somewhere else (cush drive bearing failure?) that with new rubbers, it's hard to push the sprocket carrier back in and suggestion for a lube were asked about. Should it be this easy to drop the carrier back in?  Lube or dry? Should I just put it back the way it is??
« Last Edit: 03/18/09 1826 Hours by Columbo » Logged

Formerly owned; 1970 Kawaski G3TR (UP two teeth on the front sprocket and rode the freeways!), 1972 Honda CB350K (thought the 450 was too heavy), 1974 Honda CB550K (thought the 750 was too heavy), 1982 Honda GL1100 naked, 1983 Honda FT500 Ascot, 1998 Suzuki Bandit 1200S, 1999 BMW R1100RA
Columbo
***
05/22/04 2228 Hours
Posts: 277
'04 DL1000
So. California
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« REPLY #73 on: 03/21/09 0048 Hours »
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I was excited to get the spacers today! I was disappointed that I'll need to have the sprocket hub machined.  With the wheel sitting on boards on the ground (protecting the brake rotor), I put a thin layer of  grease on a few areas of the hexagonal part of the wheel.  I pressed the sprocket hub in and put some weight on it. The grease transferred to the sprocket hub.  I may have wiggled the sprocket hub a little bit, but if it's that close, it needs to be machined. In order to save the machinest any extra work, does anything have to come off in order for it to be machined? I would take off whatever has to come off before taking it in.  Thanks.
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Formerly owned; 1970 Kawaski G3TR (UP two teeth on the front sprocket and rode the freeways!), 1972 Honda CB350K (thought the 450 was too heavy), 1974 Honda CB550K (thought the 750 was too heavy), 1982 Honda GL1100 naked, 1983 Honda FT500 Ascot, 1998 Suzuki Bandit 1200S, 1999 BMW R1100RA
Columbo
***
05/22/04 2228 Hours
Posts: 277
'04 DL1000
So. California
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« REPLY #74 on: 03/26/09 2307 Hours »
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WTF.  I thought there would be maybe 1/2 dozen machine shops in the smallish town I live in. I turned to the Yellow Pages and found over 50 of them! Most did not have a display ad. I called one with a display ad and they told me their minimum fee for anything is $350!  I called two more places and emailed them the pictures from this thread.  One said nope, the other said they needed to see the pieces and could maybe do it for $40. I took everything over there and he said he couldn't do it!  He sent me to another place nearby, but they only manufacture or modify "multiples."  I was pretty bummed out at this point.  As it turns out, a machinist I had lost contact with was back in town and did it for me, but from start to finish took a full 45 minutes. Just be aware that even though this looks rather simple, you may have a hard time finding someone to do it!
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Formerly owned; 1970 Kawaski G3TR (UP two teeth on the front sprocket and rode the freeways!), 1972 Honda CB350K (thought the 450 was too heavy), 1974 Honda CB550K (thought the 750 was too heavy), 1982 Honda GL1100 naked, 1983 Honda FT500 Ascot, 1998 Suzuki Bandit 1200S, 1999 BMW R1100RA
mn_northstar
**
04/01/09 0315 Hours
Posts: 18

DL 1000 K5 (SOLD)
Sanger, TX
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« REPLY #75 on: 04/01/09 1702 Hours »
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I am getting ready for a chain and sprocket replacement on my K5 and want to do the spacers at the same time. I tried following the additional info links listed earlier to see what needs to be machined but they all died at the old forum location. Does anyone have a recent picture of what i should look for when I dissaasemble the rear wheel? Is this separate from the Mike drawing above related the German Strommers? Sorry, I am a little confused, I just want to do this right while i have the bike apart.

Thanks
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mn_northstar
**
04/01/09 0315 Hours
Posts: 18

DL 1000 K5 (SOLD)
Sanger, TX
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« REPLY #76 on: 04/14/09 1509 Hours »
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Installed my spacer last night. All of the above claims apperar to be true. Even though my chain is toast the shift difference from 1-2 is startling. I cant wait to put on the DID X-ring and the new cogs. I do not know if there is a going poll but I did not appear to need the machine work mentioned. My hub surface seemed pretty flush but when you are talking .5mm who knows, the wheel spins freely. I will give it all a once over looking for odd wear when the new chain is here. Thanks!
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VirtualHosts
*
08/08/08 0103 Hours
Posts: 1

K3 DL1000
Atlanta, GA
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« REPLY #77 on: 04/21/09 1410 Hours »
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Just got both wheels back on after installing front and rear Pirelli Scorpion Trails. V is now permanently glued to the road. Also rebuilt the rear hub components. All claims seem to be true: Bike no longer ka-chunks into 2nd, 3rd or upwards, and drive train is much smoother.

Parts installed/replaced:

* Spacers from this exchange program
* All 5 hub carrier cush dampers (rubber was not toast but what's another $35 bucks while you're at it?)
* New All Balls sealed wheel bearing kit -- this was the real culprit; bearings were cooked beyond belief

Spend the $120 bucks on parts the next time you've got the rear wheel off. It'll be a new bike when you're done.

« Last Edit: 04/21/09 1417 Hours by VirtualHosts » Logged
amx304
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06/27/07 2301 Hours
Posts: 116
Omawhere?
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« REPLY #78 on: 06/14/09 1436 Hours »
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I just got mine installed about a month ago. Smoother and no clunking.  Thumbs Up Took all of one minute substitute the spacers when I changed the rear tire.

Rick hits another one outta the park!  Grin
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Strum Thomper
*
07/12/09 0704 Hours
Posts: 3
DL1000 K6, 97 DR650
Portland, OR
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« REPLY #79 on: 07/12/09 1142 Hours »
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Earlier this spring I was hearing a lot of crunching and popping sounds coming from the chain, particularly accelerating from a stop. So I popped onto this here forum (upon which I've lurked once or twice) to see if any useful info was floating about and I happened across this program.

Well, long story short, I participated in the exchange back in April and am quite pleased. I replaced the thoroughly worn chain at 15K miles, but not the sprockets (yeah, I know, replacing as a set is a good idea; I'll probably wind up doing that at ~25k) and the crunching and popping noises have departed, hopefully ne'er to return.

Anyway, I finally registered here at the site, so first post I thought I'd give a shout out to Rick and all the others who have addressed this horrendous oversight on Suzuki's part.

Thanks!
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marble600
VSRI 1627
***
01/10/05 1600 Hours
Posts: 335

KLV1000 A2H
York UK
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« REPLY #80 on: 07/20/09 1602 Hours »
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Hi Rick

Paypal payment sent Thumbs Up

Many thanks Happy
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Remus Revolution cans, pc111  , Corbin touring seat, Sports Euro screen with Madstad, Rox risers, Renthal bars, shorty levers, Migsel gps mount,R&G frame sliders, Pyramid carbon fibre hugger, Goodridge brake hoses, Ricks fork brake and rear wheel spacer mod...KLV1000A2H
Jocke
*
08/25/09 1229 Hours
Posts: 3
DL1000
Sweden
www Offline
« REPLY #81 on: 04/22/10 0950 Hours »
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Hi!

I bought a Gear Change Enhancer from http://www.cymarcbikeparts.co.uk/ (awesome bikeparts)
and moved the sprocket 2mm to the left instead of 2mm to the right and i noticed exactly the same thing that you did here.
No clunking and smoother shifting.

Read this:


Re: Club bespoke radiator & oil cooler covers
by flyinscot on Fri Sep 11, 2009 3:10 pm

Hi All

I am the bloke who has been doing Marks testing for him and just to give it some provinance , I have some Rider qualifications as well as mechanical expertise.

I am an I.A.M trainer,Bike safe trainer,ROSPA (GOLD), Police Advanced class 1 on road and off road, Some city and guilds quals in construction and use as well as prohibition. I have over 20 years of riding experience on a vast array of machines from off road 125 up to Kawasaki 1400. I cover about 20k a year on a bike doing a huge mixture of rural and motorway and sometimes usually once per year somewhere on the continent.

I have tried both sets of the Rad and oil covers covering two weeks of moderate to hard riding during our last heat wave and did not have any issue with overheating. I stuck in town for an hour on one of the days just to try and get it to overheat but once the fan kicked in it was fine. I am not using the covers with the bigger holes but haven't had a problem with either though if you feel there is an issue then go for the larger holes.

Not only do they offer fantastic protection that will never rust but they look great and really make your machine stand out.

I have also tried the spacer after carrying out some research which I will share for the benefit of the forum. 20 Year SUZUKI DEALER TOLD ME THAT THEY ARE AWARE OF THE PROBLEM HOWEVER AS A CHAIN (TYPE DEPENDENT IE STANDARD, O RING) with rigorous maintenance should last between 20-40k and at that time you should also change your sprockets ( sorry if I'm teaching you to suck eggs ). Suzuki class this as FAIR wear and Tear therefore never bothered to try and rectify or fleet recall the machines. I personally had never noticed a problem and as this is the 3rd Suzuki I have owned, I assumed that it was a characteristic.

However once the spacer was fitted you could have knocked me off the bike with a feather,I could not believe the difference, no more clunk ,even when you engage first gear on idle there is barely a sound. All changes much smother. Tried it on Motorway, rural roads and a little bit of off road ( only about 10 miles ) also tried gear changes with and with out clutch still sweet as a nut. This will have the added effect of extending my chain and sprocket life as well as rear Tyre and also make the bike even more economical to run ( albeit negligble ).



Do anyone know this for sure that it is 2mm to the right for all V-Strom bikes or can it be different for European bikes or should the sprocket be moved 2mm to the left??
Can anyone tell me how it should be?
I'm very confused  Help
« Last Edit: 04/22/10 1246 Hours by Jocke » Logged
greywolf
*****
01/31/06 0643 Hours
Posts: 3240

DL650AL2
Evanston IL USA
www Offline
« REPLY #82 on: 04/22/10 1455 Hours »
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2mm inward is how they all should be. Check your sprocket alignment first as the may be some variation between individual bikes. There is some conjecture that seating the sprocket carrier deeper into the hub mainly benefits by limiting the possible movement of the sprocket and carrier off line when the chain pulls on the top of the sprocket, tending to move the front of the sprocket inward.
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Pat
Nicknames I use to lessen typing - Vee=2002 - 2012 DL1000s, Veek=2014+DL1000As, Wee=2004-2011 DL650s, Glee=2012+DL650As
Jocke
*
08/25/09 1229 Hours
Posts: 3
DL1000
Sweden
www Offline
« REPLY #83 on: 04/26/10 1203 Hours »
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I send a mail to Suzuki in Sweden and they have never heard about the problem  Huh?

The answer from Suzuki-Sweden (translated from Swedish):

I have never heard about it, it's hard to believe that the Suzuki factory would have built the bike with this error.

Regards

Peter Skelander
Head of service MC
KGK Motor
Suzuki


 Help  Is it different from bike to bike or country to country  Huh?
What is Suzuki in other countrys saying?
Do they know about this problem?


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greywolf
*****
01/31/06 0643 Hours
Posts: 3240

DL650AL2
Evanston IL USA
www Offline
« REPLY #84 on: 04/26/10 1600 Hours »
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The parts in question are the same all over the world. Suzuki doesn't think there is a problem as you have discovered. Most people won't put enough miles on their bikes to encounter a difficulty. There are mixed opinions on the the value of the change but most people who have changed the parts out like it.
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Pat
Nicknames I use to lessen typing - Vee=2002 - 2012 DL1000s, Veek=2014+DL1000As, Wee=2004-2011 DL650s, Glee=2012+DL650As
mortaygo
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05/17/10 0042 Hours
Posts: 6
Offline
« REPLY #85 on: 05/19/10 0234 Hours »
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I have read a bit about wheel spacers being fitted, but I can not find the start or identifier thread.... why do we need different spacers?   I have a K2 DL1000 with 30 000ks.  The PO put new chains and sprockets on it 1500ks ago....

My bike has a slight grinding feel in the lower gears, is this the chudder you all talk off? and does the wheel spacer fix it?

Joe
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Bolzen
****
04/06/06 0211 Hours
Posts: 628

www (wild wild west)
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« REPLY #86 on: 05/19/10 1401 Hours »
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Here's the story, from head to tail
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ThomasWillington
*
07/16/10 0808 Hours
Posts: 4
DL 650 - 2007
Toronto, ON
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« REPLY #87 on: 07/16/10 0833 Hours »
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I am currently on the road in Europe with an 07 DL 650 in search of some spacers. Clearly, I did not do enough research before leaving, and was under the impression that I could pick up a pair of brand new spacers from MM. I thought, why not wait until I am living in Switzerland to do the job. (I had only read the first few pages of the thread on Stromtrooper forums)

I now understand he is not running this service any longer. I am not partictularly interested in an exchange program although it is a great idea, as I am riding all the time right now, and I am in Switzerland and  not the US. The e-mail I used for MM was masterspacers@gmail.com, and it did not bounce, but no response.

Is there any current way to buy some of the spacers somewhere in Europe? From MM, or another vendor?

Thanks, Tom
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johnofchar
Former VSRI Administrator
Former Member
******
10/19/03 1511 Hours
Posts: 12035

SV-Strom & K9 ABS Wee
Charleston SC USA
www Offline
« REPLY #88 on: 07/16/10 1156 Hours »
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Member ib may have some but he's out on a trip himself.

If you talking about using the spacers on the DL650 it's not needed. These are for the DL1000.
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“Most of the stuff people worry about, ain't never gonna happen anyway.” 

  Get your flags
Columbo
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05/22/04 2228 Hours
Posts: 277
'04 DL1000
So. California
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« REPLY #89 on: 11/24/10 0020 Hours »
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Apparently I have one of the oddball ones that needs spacing to the LEFT.  From new, stock, my chain always rubs the inside of the sprocket.  It's not bad. Probably about the same as the rest of the folks whose chain rides on the outside.  So the question is, "Why?" 

I've seen a post on how to move the sprocket hub to the LEFT by shimming the rubber cushions.  So I'm not the only one!
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Formerly owned; 1970 Kawaski G3TR (UP two teeth on the front sprocket and rode the freeways!), 1972 Honda CB350K (thought the 450 was too heavy), 1974 Honda CB550K (thought the 750 was too heavy), 1982 Honda GL1100 naked, 1983 Honda FT500 Ascot, 1998 Suzuki Bandit 1200S, 1999 BMW R1100RA
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